Search This Blog

Do It Yourself: Ceramic Tile Installation Guide

Ceramic tile can make a beautiful addition to your home and add significant value, as well. Tiling a surface in your home is not difficult, but it does require careful planning. Careless or sloppy work may result in uneven surfaces, cracked tiles or loose parts. So plan carefully and take your time to do it right.

What You'll Need

Basic tools for tiling your home include the following: tile nippers, a rented tile cutter (sometimes called a snap cutter), a level, a notched trowel, a rubber float, a sponge, a bucket for water, an electric drill, a carbide-tipped drill bit and hole saw, a tape measure, a utility knife, a plumb line and rubber gloves. For safety reasons, goggles and a face mask are also helpful.

Choosing Tile

When choosing tile, the first consideration is where it will be used: floors, countertops or walls? Appearance is always an issue as well, but pick tile that is in scale for your application. Most pavers are between 12 and 18 inches, countertop tiles could be 3 to 4 square inches, and inserts or accent tiles can be almost any size you desire. But choose a tile that is suited for the surface you have in mind. Glazed tiles and glass tiles are easier to keep clean, while unglazed tiles are less slippery underfoot but are more easily stained.
Floor tiles are made to withstand heavy traffic. Wall tiles are designed specifically for walls. If you attempt to install them on a floor, then they will most likely crack under the weight of furniture and walking. Wall tiles are also more easily scratched or scuffed with heavy traffic. Before choosing any tile, consider the degree of water resistance, strength, slipperiness and stain resistance needed for the location. Discuss your ideas and options with your local tile merchant to help select the best tiles for your project.

Foundations

Start with the proper foundation for laying tile. This is sometimes called a substrate. The pattern or material of the substrate may vary, but it must be clean, flat and very stable. Movement will cause tiles to loosen and crack. Floor tile that needs to be laid on a thick mortar bed is much more difficult, so if this is the case for you, then you should look into hiring a professional. Tile laid over a substrate of thinly coated adhesive (called thinset), however, is easily within the average skill set. These are the materials you should use for different tiling surfaces:
  • Indoor floors: cement board, concrete slab or plywood
  • Outdoor floors: cement board or concrete slab
  • Wet walls: cement board
  • Countertops: cement board, plywood or plastic laminate
  • Indoor walls and back-splashes: cement board, wallboard, plaster, plywood or drywall
If you are tiling a bathroom or kitchen countertop, then use 1/2-inch or 5/8-inch greenboard or cement board. It's easy to recognize greenboard. It gets its name from the green-tinted, water-resistant paper on its face. Cement board has a core of asphalt to resist absorption and softening as well. Apply greenboard to all bathroom walls and surfaces that will receive tile.
Cutting cement board is straightforward, but for safety, you should always wear safety goggles and a mask when doing so. To start, score through the surface skin and the mesh with a utility knife. It may require several cuts. Then press firmly along the cut line. A circular saw fitted with a carbide-tipped blade can speed up the cutting process. Necessary holes for faucets and pipes are made by scoring the desired shape into the cement board and then knocking out the shape with a hammer.
Cement board needs to be secured in place using 1 1/2-inch galvanized roofing nails or with wafer-head fasteners. Space the nails or screws within 8 inches of each other. Coat all cut edges with an approved water-resistant adhesive or tape with fiberglass seaming.

Cutting Tile

Ceramic tile is extremely hard. To cut it, use tile nippers for irregular cuts and a snap cutter or a tile saw for straight cuts. Most tile suppliers will rent or lend tile-cutting equipment. If you have many tiles to cut, then consider renting a wet saw. Holes in tile can be cut using a carbide-tipped drill or a hole saw. Always cut from the face of the tile to the back to prevent chipping the glaze.

Laying Out Your Tile Wall or Floor

Accurate layout is key to a successful tile job. For a tile wall, measure from left to right and mark the center of the wall. Then measure from the floor to the ceiling and mark that point. Using a 3-foot or longer level, pencil a horizontal line from the left wall to the right wall. At the vertical center, snap a plumb line and mark a vertical line from the ceiling to the floor. Check the level of the ceiling and floor at several points along the horizontal pencil line. If they are not level, then the tile will need to be trimmed as it is installed. Once the first layout line and plumb line are marked, it's time to layout a 2-square-foot grid across the entire wall. This will be your guide to keep the tile square.

Installing Tile

Begin in the center of the wall and apply a 2- or 3-square-foot area of tile adhesive. Leave the guide lines exposed. Spread the adhesive with the trowel's smooth edge, and then comb with the saw tooth edge. Insert tile spacers around each tile and continue with the row. To set the tile, position each tile with a firm twisting motion (don't slide). The tile spacers will help keep your grout lines consistent. Work slowly and in small sections of 2 or 3 feet. Allow the tile adhesive to dry overnight.

Applying Grout

There are several types of grout, both sanded and un-sanded. Sanded grout is for tile joints larger than 1/8-inch. Mix the grout according to the manufacturer's recommendations. The final grout should be a thick paste, similar to sour cream or soft butter consistency. For kitchen counters and areas exposed to water, you may need to add a waterproofing additive. Or, after 30 days, you can brush on a penetrating sealer along all grout lines. If you are using a terra-cotta or other porous tile, then these may require a penetrating sealer to keep the tile clean in high-traffic areas.
Pack grout firmly into joints with a grout trowel held at a consistent 45-degree angle to the tile surface. Clean off excess grout immediately with a damp sponge and clear water; then remove the hazy residue after an hour. When dry, polish with a clean cloth, and voilĂ  ! You are finished.