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Showing posts with label Home And Garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Home And Garden. Show all posts

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Dishwashers

Initial designs for the dishwasher were commercially unsuccessful, but the wash-cycle machines are now commonplace in homes around the world. Read more

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8 Great Dishwasher Tricks
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LCD TVs

http://studentkarachi.blogspot.com/2014/09/lcd-tvs.html

Fireplaces

http://studentkarachi.blogspot.com/2014/09/fireplaces.html

Technology is always changing, and in its more recent evolutions, the LCD TV was born. Using light-modulating prop....... Read more
Fireplaces are a cozy, romantic option for home heating. While gas fireplaces are more common than traditional and....... Read more

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Portable Fans

A Guide to Understanding Portable Fans

Easy to use and helpful for those stuffier rooms, portable fans add that bit of breeze you need inside. With several different designs, sizes, colors and shapes, there's no end to how creative you can be with your portable fans. The best part? You'll have a way to cool off once you've done all the hard work of finding it.

Types of Portable Fans

  • Box fans are, as the name suggests, fan blades encased in a box covering. The box has several open slots on the front and back to allow air flow through. While originally meant to rest on the floor, box fans are more efficient when placed on a higher surface, such as a window sill or a table. They are typically much larger than other portable fans.
  • Desktop fans work well for small rooms or temporary relief. While the fan blades rest in a variation of shapes, usually cylindrical, the fan itself sits atop a stable foundation or mount that rests well on a tabletop or desk. These are extremely common in homes.
  • Pedestal fans rest on the floor, and stand tall, usually four to five feet high. The cylindrical fan blade case sits atop a tall pedestal, which allows for easy height adjusting and fan oscillation.
  • Tower fans look a lot like standard space heaters. The tall, often cylindrical fan case rests on the floor and stands several feet high. Their controls usually rest on top, with options for oscillation and fan strength. Because they are heavier than pedestal fans, they are often cheaper than them as well.

Important Portable Fan Features

  • Speed settings are more and more common in portable fans. Even the most basic tabletop fans, for example, come with two settings: low and high speed. This varies depending on quality and price of models, so shop around to find what works best for you. Many stores will let you test the fans before you buy them, so keep that in mind as you're browsing.
  • Oscillation, the rotation of a fan to provide extended airflow, is more common in portable fans than ever before. If you do not like oscillation, you have two options: First, you can get a fan that has an oscillation button, which can switch the oscillation setting to off. Second, you can find a fan that does not have oscillation. This may limit you to a box fan or tabletop model. Oscillation is most effective when the rotation range is not too wide, however, so don't let the "bigger range" sticker trick you into paying more.
  • Controls used to be limited to buttons and switches, but technology has been on the user's side this last half-century. Many portable fans come with remote control options and/or extremely easy to use button panels. In the end, choose a control system that will work best for you. Are you notorious for losing the TV remote? Then maybe you should stick to on-device controls. And always be sure to get a fan with controls you can easily understand. This is a safety factor as much as a convenience one.

Portable Fan Cost

Basic desktop fans can cost as little as $5 to $10, but for higher-quality desktop fans, $20 to $40 is more common. Box fans, too, vary in price based on quality, usually the material used to make the box itself. Low-end models will hover near $15 to $20, while advanced models will range anywhere from $50 to $100. Some box fans that are built specifically for window placement can cost as high as $200.
Pedestal fans have the greatest range in price. Cheaper models can cost as little as $20, while better models will cost upwards of $200. However, decent pedestal fans are available for under $100. Newer pedestal fans, called air multipliers, have no blades and use suction to create airflow. These can cost as much as $500. Tower fans have the most consistent pricing, usually ranging from $50 to $150 depending on quality, settings and airflow.

Portable Fan To-Do List

  1. Decide where you need a fan. Where you plan to place your fan should determine more about your shopping experience than anything else. If you have limited space or only need a compact device, then desktop fans will probably be best for you. For living rooms that need more airflow, pedestal fans and tower fans are very popular, while box fans work well in garages or kitchens.
  2. Examine the features closely. Don't pay extra for an extra "medium" fan setting. There's little chance you'll need it. Instead, pick out the features you will find most useful and practical for your needs, and go from there. And again, don't pay more for a fan that oscillates at a wider range.
  3. Shop around, and be creative. Fans can be overpriced in store. To avoid this, you can shop at large warehouse stores if you have memberships there. If not, you can negotiate. Find a great deal on a fan when one store is having a big sale, and take that price to a competitor. Nine times out of 10, the salesperson will get their manager's approval, and you'll have saved yourself a lot of money.

Ceiling Fans

A Guide to Understanding Ceiling Fans

A nice breeze outside is often better than colder temperatures, which is why many people prefer fans to air conditioning in their homes. While limited to their surrounding spaces, ceiling fans can add a simple yet elegant touch to your room while also cooling you off. With various design and style options, as well as available lighting fixtures, ceiling fans are extremely versatile.

Types of Ceiling Fans

  • Stack-motor ceiling fans were originally built due to rising energy costs. Using a style of electric motor (the "stack" motor), these ceiling fans are energy efficient. However, because their central hub, or flywheel, is made of rubber, it can dry out and crack over time, rendering the fan unusable until the hub is replaced.
  • Direct-drive ceiling fans, also called spinner fans, employ a direct-drive motor with a stationary core, whose shell revolves around it. The fan blades attach to this shell. Direct-drive ceiling fans are typically the least expensive to produce, but they are also more prone to noisiness and breakdown.
  • Belt-driven ceiling fans were originally operated by a water-powered motor, but more modern models feature an electric motor, which uses a system of belts to turn the fan blades.
  • Punkah style ceiling fans are the oldest known style of ceiling fan. Dating back to the 8th century, punkah fans operate using slowly moving blades that are assembled in a line, imitating leaves and making pendular motions. Rather than creating airflow like rotating fans, punkahs create a gentle breeze.
While there are other fan models, such as cast-iron fans, skeletal motors, friction-drive fans and gear-driving ceiling fans, they are extremely uncommon, mostly due to ceased production or high production and/or maintenance costs.

Important Ceiling Fan Features

  • Downrod: The downrod, or the part of the ceiling fan attached directly to the ceiling, should be the right height for your ceiling type. Low ceilings need flush-mounted fans, while sloped ceilings require an adapter.
  • Light fixture: Many ceiling fans today come with lighting fixtures. Depending on your concern for energy efficiency, the type of light bulb you use can make a big difference. Compact fluorescent lights use much less energy than standard or halogen light bulbs do, and Energy Star ceiling fans with light fixtures will only work with fluorescent bulbs. However, for lighting over vanities or stoves, for example, you may want to opt for a higher watt bulb to ensure clear sight.
  • Blade: While textured blades can look interesting and add a special design aspect to your room, smooth blades are generally quieter on high speeds than are textured ones, and they can also save energy, depending on the weight.
  • Controls: While switches are common for ceiling fans, getting a model with a remote control or special wall-mounted controls can enhance convenience. Perhaps the biggest benefit is that the user will not have to pull a chain several times to get the speed that they want.

Ceiling Fan Cost

Basic one- or two-speed ceiling fans, which usually work off a pull chain or wall switch, often come with a standardized light fixture and can cost anywhere from $20 to $90. Any custom or period design ceiling fans can ring up $200 to $600 easily, and this includes specialty blade shapes and features such as remote controls, variable speeds and better light fixtures.
High-end ceiling fans, which can come in anything from antique brass or copper to wooden blades and other specialty materials, can cost up to $2,000. Unique light fixtures for these special material ceiling fans are often sold separately and can cost around $1,000 per light. For ceiling fan systems, which have two to six fans mounted in a row or on a rod, can go as high as $12,000, starting as low as $3,000. Punkah style ceiling fans are often in this price category.

Ceiling Fan To-Do List

  1. Check size and style. While these do not always determine a fan's quality, they do have a big effect on the buyer. While a very large ceiling fan may seem great in theory, it could become overwhelming in an otherwise small-item room. Also, elaborate fan styles can make a room appear over-cluttered when not paired with the right design complements. Just be sure you enjoy looking at your fan and will continue to do so for a long while.
  2. Note your warranty. Cheaper fans typically come with 10- to 15-year warranties, while high-end models can have up to 50-year warranties. These are often motivation to have a professional install your device, because in the case of owner error during installation, your fan could lose its eligibility for the warranty. This brings us to our next step.
  3. Know the installation requirements. The last thing you want is to damage your fan or ceiling by not understanding your fan's needs. Ceiling fans should always rest at least seven feet above the floor, and the blade tips should be no closer than two feet from the wall and any surrounding drapes. If you're unsure of what you're doing, always consult a professional, who can take responsibilities for any error that takes place during installation.
  4. Check your junction box. Many people don't know to verify that their junction box is heavy enough to sustain the weight and power of their ceiling fan. This can lead to serious ceiling damage and possible breaking of your fan. Always check your fan's instruction manual to see the requirements, and if you're unsure of whether your junction box fits this standard, then call a professional.

Air Conditioners

A Guide to Understanding Air Conditioners

For days when fans just don't do the trick, air conditioners are very convenient appliances to have in your home. And the standard units aren't only used as room coolers anymore. They also dehumidify the air, making your indoor experience more comfortable.

Types of Air Conditioners

Window and through-wall units work well for individual room cooling. Unlike central air, they do not require any permanent installation. All installation supplies should be included in your unit purchase.
Unitary systems are the most common one-room air conditioners. They sit in a window or wall opening, and have completely interior controls. A fan blows over the evaporator, drawing heat from a room and discharging it into the environment.
PTAC (packaged terminal air conditioners) are common in hotels, because they have two separate units attached through tubing. This allows separate PTAC systems to independently set temperature preferences. Also, PTAC systems can be reversed into heating systems, retrieving hot air from outside and funneling it inside, unlike the air conditioning, which retrieves hot air from inside and funnels it outside.

Portable air conditioners have the benefit of not needing permanent installation. They can cool a specific region of a building. Some people rent them in cases of emergency, such as power failures in warehouses. All portable A/C requires exhaust hoses for venting.
Single-hosed units run a hose from the back of the portable A/C to the vent kit, where hot air can be released. These are ideal for small rooms, but they have lower cooling effect than other models.
Dual-hosed units are good for larger rooms. One hose vents hot air, while the other draws in additional air. With two hoses, hot air is expelled faster than in single-hosed units.
Split units are the most effective portable A/Cs. The compressor and evaporator are located separately, attached via two detachable refrigerant pipes. Also, with split units, no water ever needs to be drained from the internal unit. The compressor unit must always be located outside.

Central air conditioning, or central air, uses ducts to distribute cool air to more than one room in a building. This can be very costly to install and operate.

Important Air Conditioner Features

  • BTU: BTU, or British thermal units, is the listing on your air conditioning device that tells you how powerful the system is. The higher the BTU rating, the faster the unit can cool the air surrounding it. For bigger rooms, higher BTU is better. Of course, you don't want to get a BTU setting that is too high for a small room. This can cause your A/C unit to get to cold, which can damage it. Always consult the user's manual or a professional if you're unsure.
  • Extension kits: Most used on window units, extension kits are available for A/C units that do not completely fill the space in which they are installed. For example, a window unit may be too small for the window space it replaces. As a result, users will need an extension kit to properly fit the unit into the space and help avoid unnecessary ventilation. If you're unsure of how to do this or what kind of extension kit to use, consult a professional.
  • Insulation: OK, so technically, insulation is not part of the air conditioner. However, a room's insulation will dictate how well the room can cool down. With poor insulation, cold air easily escapes the room, defeating the air conditioning unit's purpose. Therefore, you should verify your home is well insulated to ensure the best performance from your A/C unit.

Air Conditioner Cost

Window-mounted air conditioners for rooms under 400 square feet are usually $100 to $300. For larger spaces, that price can go up as high as $800. Of course, added features, such as extra quiet settings, energy efficiency and remote controls will add more to the base price. Extension kits can add $30 to $100.
Through-the-wall models run between $250 and $600 for smaller room units, and upwards of $1,500 for larger rooms. Installation for these units will usually range just under $200. Again, more features mean higher prices. Portable residential units are usually between $400 and $650 for an average-sized room. Portable air conditioners for larger areas, as in the case of commercial-grade factories or spaces, can cost as much as $7,000.

Air Conditioner To-Do List

  1. Know the size of the room where your unit will go. With this room size, as well as the size of the window (if applicable), you can determine the right air conditioner for you, both in terms of size and in terms of power. Also, check the insulation. This can greatly affect the efficiency of your device as well as the worth.
  2. Check the direction of the room in relation to sunlight. For any air conditioners that use units entirely or partially outside, you don't want the sun to beat directly on the unit. This can cause damage and hamper the effectiveness of your device.

Central Air

A Guide to Understanding Central Air

Particularly in homes across the United States, central air conditioning has become the norm, not the exception. Because family sizes are constantly growing, as is the occupant-to-home ratio, it becomes more and more necessary to cool down an entire house. For this reason, central air offers several benefits.

How Central Air Worksair

A central air conditioner works similarly to your refrigerator. However, instead of spilling the heat behind the unit, like a refrigerator does, the air conditioner will funnel the expelled heat outside to the compressor, which is located outside your home. In essence, the unit will consume hot air from the interior of your house and release it outside, effectively cooling the temperature of your home.
Central air uses ducts to distribute cool air to more than one room. Some use pipes to distribute cold water to heat exchangers and do not plug into a standard electrical outlet. The power necessary to run a central air conditioner depends entirely on the size of your home and the unit itself. Before installing a device, always have a professional audit your home to estimate the size unit you'll need.

Types of Central Air

  • Split system: In split-system central air conditioners, an outdoor metal cabinet contains the condenser and compressor, while an indoor cabinet contains the evaporator. In many, the indoor cabinet also contains a furnace. The evaporator coil is installed in the cabinet or main supply duct of the furnace. Split systems are most common economical for homes that already have a furnace but no air conditioner.
  • Package system: Unlike the two-piece split system, a package system air conditioner has the evaporator, condenser and compressor all located in one cabinet, usually on a roof or a building-adjacent slab of concrete. Usually involving electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace, package systems eliminate the need for an indoor furnace.

Important Central Air Features

  • BTU, or British thermal units, are used as a rating system on the power of an air conditioner. Some manufacturers will measure this in tons, which are each equal to 12,000 BTU. Typically, the size of the compressor is indicative of BTU. You always want a BTU level that matches your home size, never more, never less. An undersized unit will not have the cooling capacity to efficiently cool your house down, requiring you to run it longer and harder than a properly sized unit. Oversized units will have a larger compressor than necessary, consuming more energy than a properly sized unit and costing the owner more money.
  • SEER, or seasonal energy efficiency rating, refers to how many BTU of heat your unit removes for each watt of electricity it consumes. The higher the SEER, the less it will cost to operate your unit. Federal Law requires a minimum SEER number of 13, and the higher the SEER, the more the unit will cost, but the money you will save over the life of your unit is much more. For this reason, you should only install central air to a home you intent to keep for a while, otherwise you will waste money.

Central Air Benefits

Central air conditioning systems have several benefits when compared to smaller units. While they are a larger investment, central air systems can often save homeowners money in the long run, particularly for users who would otherwise need several room units.
Also, when an air handling unit turns on, the room air is drawn in from various parts of the building through return-air ducts. This air goes through a filter system, where particles such as dust and lint are removed. More advanced filers can also remove some pollutants. This filtered air is then rerouted to other rooms, repeating the cycle and actually cleaning your air.
Finally, because the condenser unit on a central air system is located outside the building, it makes less indoor noise than free-standing or wall unit air conditioners.

Central Air Cost

Because central air conditioning is a very costly investment, you should weigh your options carefully. If you plan on changing addresses soon or completely remodeling, you will likely want to wait and install central air later. You'll lose money on a central A/C unit in the short run, but you'll save money in the long run.
To add central air to an existing forced-air heating system, the average home installation will cost between $3,500 and $4,000. This takes two or three days and involves little or no change to the existing ducts. If any ducts need altering or adding, then the work required will be greater, and the price will double. For smaller houses, between 800 and 1,000 square feet and no existing duct work, the installation can cost between $2,000 and $6,000. Higher-end systems can still end up costing as much as $10,000.

Fireplaces

A Guide to Understanding Fireplaces

Fireplaces are a cozy, romantic option for home heating. While gas fireplaces are more common than traditional and wood-burning fireplaces, all are generally accepted by the population. To add that touch of natural ambience to your home, for heat or otherwise, read on to learn all about them.

Types of Fireplaces

Gas fireplaces are most common in modern homes, as they require less maintenance and upkeep than traditional fireplaces. Users also do not need to provide wood to operate the unit. There are three basic kinds of gas fireplaces, each with different piping and ventilation systems. For the best option in your home, consult a professional.
Top-vented: Top-vented gas fireplace inserts are used to convert a traditional masonry wood fireplace to gas. They have a gas log set inside a steel or cast-iron heat exchanger and are vented through the chimney using a two-pipe system. Optional features include fans to move the heat, remote controls, wall switches and wall-mounted thermostats.
Direct-vented: These fireplaces don't require a chimney and are a way to add a fireplace when there isn't one already there. Installation is done through an outside wall to allow for ventilation, and a pipe-within-a-pipe feature lets air in and exhaust out with just one vent.
Vent-free: Ventless gas units don't need a chimney or a vent, and they are either right against a wall or extremely close to it, unlike other models that need more clearance. Some states do not allow ventless fireplaces to be used for safety concerns, while others have very strict rules regarding use, such as requiring users to keep a window open while using the fireplace. However, with evolving technology, several ventless fireplaces are coming out with low carbon monoxide output, some even at levels below that of an average kitchen range.
"Traditional" wood-burning fireplaces require no piping system, but they do require a chimney to release the smoke caused from the burning wood and to prevent carbon monoxide buildup inside the home. Wood-burning fireplaces are more common in old homes, where chimneys are common, but are not as efficient at warming an area as a gas fireplace is, because most of the heat in a wood-burning fireplace escapes through the chimney.

Fireplace Safety

  • Hire a professional. Installing a fireplace correctly requires a moderate to high level of skill and knowledge, something that the average homeowner does not have. With professionals, you are guaranteed to get the job done right, or in the case that it is done wrong, be reimbursed for the trouble and have it redone. Whenever fire is involved, it's better to err on the side of caution.
  • Observe guidelines. With every fireplace unit, there are instructions for safety. Some are obvious, like don't leave a blanket next to the flames, and others are not, like leave a window cracked. Depending on the type of fireplace you have as well as the type of home you have, these instructions will vary and often dictate how safe your house is as a whole. Always read the instructions, and always follow them.
  • Invest in Fire Insurance. While wildfires seem like a long shot (and often are), accidental fires in the home are not. Whether from an escaped ember from your logs or a floating piece of cotton that catches and spread, fires can turn all your hard-earned belongings and memories into embers. The last thing you want after something like that is to have nothing you can start building with again. Fire insurance is not included in all homeowner insurance plans, so speak to a representative about your options.
  • Use a carbon monoxide (CO) alarm. When using a gas or traditional fireplace, the risk of carbon monoxide is always a danger. The smoke is odorless and colorless, so you may not detect a problem until it's too late. Some fireplaces even come with carbon monoxide alarms to keep consumers safe, but always have one on hand, just in case.

Fireplace Cost

In a fireplace that is currently wood-burning but you would like to convert to gas, is charged for per log. To have a gas fireplace, you need vented or unvented gas logs, which look like real wood but are made of non-flammable materials. Vented logs, which require a chimney, run between $300 and $550. Unvented gas logs, which are for fireplaces without a chimney or pipes, cost just a little more, at about $350 to $600. Installation involving a licensed contractor usually costs between $200 and $350.
Top-vented gas fireplace inserts are also used to convert traditional fireplaces to gas. These inserts cost between $1,200 and $2,900, and professional installation tacks on another $500 to $1,000. Direct-vent gas fireplaces average between $1,200 and $3,200. Installation for a direct-vent unit varies extensively depending on hearth design and complexity, ranging cost anywhere from $600 to $5,000. Ventless fireplaces cost between $400 and $1,500, in addition to installation costs for the gas lines and any additional mantling and features.

Space Heaters

A Guide to Understanding Space Heaters

For many homes, space heaters are extremely beneficial, whether you have central heating or not. The small range and portability allows users to maintain temperatures according to temporary convenience or necessity, without the cost of running central heat.

Types of Space Heaters

  • Electric heaters run on a power cord. They are available in radiant and convection models and are very convenient for indoor heating. Convection models will better heat an entire room but can be louder than radiant versions, which are ideal for spot heating but whose heat quickly disappears when they're turned off. There are some electric heaters that are filled with oil, making them slightly more expensive but also guaranteeing that they never need replacing.
  • Propane and kerosene heaters are ideal for outdoor space heating. The heat from propane/kerosene heaters is extremely powerful, but because they run on open flames, the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning and accidental fires is much higher than in electric heaters, so they should be used with caution. Indoor use is not encouraged, except in cases of emergency, and only when good ventilation is available.

Important Space Heater Features

  • Handle: Because space heaters are ideal for their portability, having sturdy handles is a necessity. It allows both for convenience and safety. Depending on the model and its weight, you may need a heavier duty handle. Most electric models, for example, are lighter than fuel-operated models.
  • Power cord: On electric space heaters, cords are a huge safety concern. Be sure that the cords are well installed and that they have plenty of safety rubber. Cord lengths vary, but you should be sure that the length you choose is convenient for you. Cords that are too long or too short lead to tripping and fire hazards. Also, only use extension cords that are 12- or 14-gauge models. Any overloaded power cord or frayed cord can lead to fire, injury or worse.
  • Thermostat: Space heaters can be a hassle when you have to turn them off and as room temperature varies. With a thermostat, however, the user can set a temperature and the heater will maintain that temperature until it is turned off.
  • Touch sensor/tip-over switch: For safety concerns, you should look for space heaters with these settings. A tip-over switch will turn the heater off automatically if it is tipped or knocked over. A touch sensor will turn the heater off automatically if the grille is touched. These are important, particularly if you have flammable materials in your home like curtains or shag carpet near the heater, or if you have children and pets that are at home when the heater is in use.
  • Oxygen depletion sensor: On fuel-fired space heaters, an oxygen depletion sensor will shut off the heater automatically when it senses that the amount of oxygen in the surrounding air is reduced. This can lessen the risk of poisoning.

Space Heater Cost

Basic electric convection heater fans can cost anywhere from $15 to $65, and better features can push that cost up to $250. Electric ceramic convection heaters, which are somewhat safer than metal coil-based heaters, start at $30 and can cost anywhere up to $150. Oil-filled electric heaters can cost anywhere from $50 to $110.
Propane heaters cost between $80 and $250 and provide up to six hours of heat on a one-gallon tank. Kerosene heaters are somewhat more expensive, ranging from $130 to $500. However, they are not as popular now due to safety concerns, so they are mostly used in outdoor adventures or winter outdoor events.

Space Heater Safety

The biggest issue with space heaters is safety. Over 20,000 home fires are caused each year by space heaters. Over 1,500 of those result in intense injury or death. When shopping for an electric space heater, always look for a label from Underwriters Laboratory (UL), Interket (ETL) or Canadian Standards Association (CSA), all of which verify that the heater was constructed following U.S. safety standards.
When setting up a space heater, make sure it is on a flat, level surface that is not easily susceptible to heat damage. Put it where children and pets can't reach it, and be sure your space heater is never left unattended. Never use a space heater on a damp or wet surface, unless the heater is designed for outdoor/bathroom use. The moisture can damage your heater and also cause electric shocks.
Keep combustible materials such as bedding, curtains, furniture and rugs away from the heater on all sides. Never use your heater near paint, gas cans or matches, all of which pose extreme fire risks when combined with heat or flame. Electric cords are most safe when placed on top of area rugs or carpeting, as these are less susceptible to tripping. Also, be wary of using the same outlet for you heater for something else at the time of heater operation. This can, in some cases, cause overheating, which can break the device and/or cause electrical surges.

Furnaces

A Guide to Understanding Furnaces

Many people confuse furnaces with central heating. They operate on the same general systems, and many central heating sets have furnaces or boilers that provide their heat. However, unlike central heating systems themselves, which are separated into different units that can oftentimes be placed outdoors, furnaces can be placed either indoors or outdoors, depending on convenience for the owner.
Furnaces are the sources of heat for central heating systems and for general household heating. They pump heat into the air, which is funneled through the installed piping system and, in the case of central heating, filtered into an entire home using an air handler. The exact operation varies by furnace type and model. Some furnaces can even double as a tankless water heater when connected to vent pipes with running water in them.

Types of Furnaces

  • Gas floor furnace: Gas floor furnaces work based on a system where heat rises from a grill flush with the floor. They are relatively inexpensive when installed for the first time, but replacements can be extremely costly. They heat using a pilot light.
  • Self-contained, vented, gas wall furnace: These furnaces provide hot air directly to the surrounding space. They often have higher ranges in energy efficiency and are slightly cheaper than gas floor furnaces. Like gas furnaces, wall furnaces heat using a pilot light.
  • Indoor wood furnace: Uncommon in the U.S., indoor wood furnaces run on fires that are maintained mostly by wood and fuel. Due to extraneous heat escape and other health concerns, indoor wood furnaces are not regularly used anymore.
  • Outdoor wood furnace: Also sometimes called an outdoor wood-fired boiler, outdoor wood furnaces are very popular in the U.S. They often look like a small metal shack, and the furnace provides heat to the nearby house through an underground insulated water pipe. They are appealing because they accommodate more fuel than other forms of wood heat, decreasing the number of times an owner has to add fuel to the fire. However, some people complain that outdoor wood furnaces emit too much smoke and find it bothersome.

Important Furnace Features

  • Burners are the most important components in furnaces. It is where inside the furnace that the air and fuel is burned to produce heat. They are usually lit by a pilot flame, which is lit by an electrical spark. Some furnace burners include a pre-mixer to mix the fuel and air prior to entering the burner, providing better combustion.
  • Insulation is important for many different reasons. Based solely in law, local building codes often have regulations on insulation requirements for energy efficiency purposes. Otherwise, poorly insulated ducts result in cool blows of air that lose the heat provided by the furnace. This not only makes your house heat slower, but it also deducts your furnace's efficiency, costing you money.
  • AFUE (annual fuel utilization efficiency) is a thermal efficiency measure. It measures the actual amount of heat that is delivered to your house compared to the amount of fuel that you use to operate the furnace. For example, a furnace that has 75 percent AFUE converts 75 percent of the fuel that you use to heat, while the other 25 percent is wasted to the outside world. Obviously, you want an AFUE rating that is as high as possible, so take these ratings into consideration when shopping for a furnace.

Furnace Cost

A gas floor furnace costs between $900 and $1,500, and self-contained furnaces range anywhere from $500 to $1,500 depending on capacity and energy efficiency. Installation for either of these adds another $1,000 to $2,000 to the overall cost. Replacing older gas furnaces start at about $1,700, but depending on efficiency ratings and location complexity, that can get as high as $7,500 or more. When energy efficiency is at its highest (90 to 97 percent), the cost rises to as much as $10,000.

Furnace To-Do List

  1. Always consult a professional before purchasing or installing a unit. They will audit your home for not only a cost estimate, but also the size and efficiency level that you will need for your device to be the best deal. Without consulting a professional, you run the risk of having a highly inefficient or over-sized device, both of which will cost you money in the long run.
  2. Understand the investment. Furnaces are expensive, whether you're buying new or replacing. Upfront costs range in the high thousands. Installation, insulation and utilities costs also tack on more dollar signs. Unless you have a home where you (and your furnace) will be staying for a long while, then don't get one. Wait until you've found the home you'll be settled in for a long while.
  3. Turn your furnace on within a week of installing it. Determine if it works, how well it works and how much you are satisfied by it. If it is not up to your standards or does not operate correctly, call both the installer and the manufacturer immediately to arrange for a replacement. You should never have to pay for this replacement out of pocket. As long as it was professionally installed, you should be covered under warranty

Central Heating

A Guide to Understanding Central Heating

We all know it well, the winter huddle. Around the fireplace or space heater, you, your toes and the kiddies are bundled in blankets and swarmed together to access the heat. That is, before you discovered the wonder of central heating. A central heating system provides warmth to the whole interior of a building, sourcing from one location and reaching several. Particularly for families in large homes, central heating can be a real blessing when those cold winter days begin.

Types of Central Heating

  • HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning): Available both in homes and automobiles, HVAC is a system designed to accommodate indoor environmental comfort. These all-in-one systems, so to speak, are often operated on a thermostat and can be rather pricey.
  • Boiler/central furnace: Boilers and furnaces are closed units in which a fluid, typically water, is heated. The vaporized fluid exits the boiler and is used in a central heating process. Usually made of steel, boilers often come installed on a property before new owners move in. Due to the heavy materials they are made of, boilers are extremely expensive and not very popular.
  • Radiator: Also known as heat exchangers, radiators transfer energy from one medium to another in order to cool or heat compartments. They are very common in cars, buildings and electronics. For heating a building, radiators are commonly paired with a central boiler, which uses pumps to circulate air through the radiators. There are two types of radiators: single-pipe and double-pipe. The former works with steam, the latter with steam or hot water.
  • Electric and gas-fired heaters: Electric heaters are usually part of a fan coil that is part of a central air conditioner. They blow air across the heating unit, which circulates the heat through the air ducts. Gas-fired electronics use natural gas, propane and oil to produce heat, which is then circulated throughout a building. Electric heaters typically cost more than gas-fired heaters do.

Important Central Heating Features

  • Efficiency: Standard high-efficiency central heating is around 80 percent efficient. This is ideal for standard or mild climate areas where building owners would like to save energy on heating. However, for areas with harsh winters, a 90-percent efficient central heater would be a wise investment. Chances are that the $1,000 more paid upfront will be repaid in future fuel or gas savings.
  • Repair or replace? When something goes wrong in central heating systems with furnaces, the question is typically whether to repair it or replace it. When shopping for furnaces, find ones with strong heat exchangers and control modules. While most features on a furnace can be repaired when they malfunction, these two cannot. The investment will likely be worth it.
  • Noise: If noise will bother you, then ask your contractor ahead of time for decibel ratings of whichever units you're considering. For some perspective, the decibel reading is 15 at a whisper, 60 at normal conversation, 90 at a lawnmower and 110 at a car horn. Most homeowners prefer decibel readings below 30 in their homes.

Central Heating Cost

Prices vary extensively from model to model, depending on features, size, efficiency and operation requirements. A mid-efficiency gas unit, for example, is 73- to 83-percent efficient and starts at anywhere from $1,700 to $4,000. However, the prices can increase to $5,000 or $7,500+ if the installation location is difficult to access or has tricky duct systems. A low-end high-efficiency unit (90 to 97 percent) will cost $2,500 to $6,000, and advanced systems can reach upwards of $10,000. For a new construction installation, where a remodeling project is involved to add ductwork and other system necessities, a standard project can range anywhere from $10,000 to $15,000.
Aside from units and installation, certain service and building charges may apply, as well. Due to local codes, many buildings have to get fire inspections before a central heating unit is installed. Any old fuel tanks that need removal will add $500 to $3,000 to the tab, and older ductwork could require asbestos removal, which also costs money. Any air cleaner added to your system will cost between $700 and $900, a programmable thermostat costs $200 to $300, and zoning preferences (different heating settings in different rooms of a building at the same time) could cost $1,000 to $2,000.

Central Heating Environmental Aspects

Central heating, while it has its benefits, can be wasteful from an energy-efficiency standpoint. This is particularly true in buildings where only a single room needs heating, or when some rooms that receive heat are unoccupied. These buildings could probably benefit from isolated heating, either from room heaters, fireplaces, space heaters or other devices.
To save energy on central heating, you can alter the thermostat to make the degree setting closer to room temperature. Because the degree change is so slight, occupants will likely not even notice the difference, and the stress on your heater (and fuel/electricity bill) will be less cumbersome.