Drywall installation is a task that can be
done by most homeowners with basic craftsman skills. However, it is much
easier if you have a friend or helper, as the 4-by 8-foot drywall
panels are heavy. Drywall is manufactured in 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch,
1/2-inch and 5/8-inch thicknesses. For two-layer installation or curved
walls, thinner 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch sheets are available. Typically,
single-story residents require 1/2-inch drywall sheets, while two-story
applications require 5/8-inch sheets. Some applications may require
fire-rated Type-X drywall, such as between apartments or on a garage
wall that joins a house. Please note that Type-X drywall is fire
resistant but not fireproof.
Before you start, it is a good idea to check the local building
department for your city's code requirements. Most building departments
will be happy to provide a copy of the local codes for drywall
installation and nail or screw spacing.Tools You'll Need
The necessary tools include a soft lead pencil, 12- to 25-foot tape measure, 48-inch drywall T-square, utility knife with extra blades, keyhole saw, drywall hammer, electric screwdriver with drywall bit, 4-inch and 6-inch putty knives and a small hand-held rasp. Optional tools include a circle cutter, electric saber saw, 12-inch or wider finishing knife and a drywall router.High-quality tools save time during the project. A quality tape measure should have a thumb or finger lock to hold the tape at the measured distance. A drywall hammer is different than the everyday finish hammer. Drywall hammers have a special serrated face that helps keep them on the nail head. Look for an electric screwdriver with a magnetic screw-holding tip and an adjustable clutch. The clutch will release and stop the driving of the screw when it has reached the proper degree of tightness and depth on the drywall sheet. Hand-held rasps are handy to quickly reduce and straighten the cut edge of drywall pieces. This is also handy for fine-fitting drywall pieces. If the project is a remodel and already sheeted, you may want to add a stud finder to your tool box. A stud finder will help to quickly locate hidden wall studs behind existing drywall or paneling.
Measure the Area of Your Project
Carefully measure each wall to estimate how many sheets of drywall the project will require. Be certain to allow for areas you will need to cut out, such as doorways and windows, and for measuring mistakes that might happen as you progress.Sheet the Walls
Install the sheets horizontally. Measure the first wall to find the nearest stud. Be certain that the end of the sheet falls across the center of a stud. This will strengthen your joint when it is taped later. Measure your first drywall sheet, and cut to fit with a utility knife. Also, measure for any obstructions, such as light boxes, air conditioning vents or outlets, and cut these out with a utility knife or keyhole saw. Stagger all end joints to avoid joint cracking.Hold the sheet in position, begin at the center of the sheet and apply screws every 8 inches along each stud, sinking the heads just below the surface without tearing the paper. The screws around the edges of the sheet should be not less than 3/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch from the edge of the sheet. Work your way around the room and sheet the remaining walls. If the room requires metal corner beads or pre-finished rounded corners, then apply those now.
Tape and Mud
Start by checking that each screw or nail is sunk below the surface of the drywall. It is easier to fix any problems now, rather than trying after you've started to tape and mud.Take the 4-inch putty knife and cover up each screw or nail dimple with joint compound, keeping the surface flush with the wall. Next, take the 6-inch putty knife and run it along each seam of the drywall, filling each crease with joint compound. Then, tape the joints. Hold one end while your friend stretches the paper tape along the freshly mudded seam. Smooth the tape into the wet mud with the 6-inch knife and remove any excess compound.
After the first coat has dried, lay a second coat of joint compound over it, feathering the edges about 4 inches on each side of the joints. After the second coat has dried, apply the third coat, feathering it 7 or 8 inches on each side of the joint. The third coat is usually just a very light skim coat with a 12- or 14-inch finishing knife. When it's dry, finish sanding with 100- or 120-grit sandpaper. Use goggles and a dust mask when sanding. The gypsum dust and joint compound dust can irritate your eyes and throat. Sand only the joint compound, not the paper. If you damage the paper, you may need to float a very thin coat of joint compound over it.
Now you're ready for paint.