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Home Improvement

10 Cheap & Easy Winterizing Tips

Every winter, you stack up credit card balances on gifts, meals and transportation. But the real money pit is your utility bill. With temperatures at their lowest and many people entertaining guests, the expense of heating becomes a big issue. Here are 10 great ways to keep your house warm without breaking the bank.

1. Choose space heaters: Furnaces really serve little purpose unless you're hosting several parties during the winter or you commonly have several different rooms occupied at the same time. Not only are space heaters energy savers, but they are also convenient, easier to control and portable. They'll definitely save you money on your utilities bill.

2. Invest in an electric blanket (or two): Running heaters at night is not very practical, since you'll be bundled up anyway, and only a room or two will be occupied. Electric blankets, particularly in the long run, are much cheaper than the higher electricity bill with heating systems. The blanket is also much nicer to cozy up to at night.

3. Make draft snakes: Draft snakes are fabric tubes placed on a window sill or under a door to prevent cold air from creeping in. They are extremely easy to make from home and can be real money savers. All you have to do is sew a tube of fabric to fit the width of your window or door, and fill it with dried rice. While draft snakes don't insulate the sides of windows or doors, they insulate the most commonly drafty part: the bottoms.

4. Check your windows for leaks: Go around your home and check all your windows. First, make sure all the windows are shut and latched. Use a lit incense stick to check for drafts. Slowly moving the stick around the borders of the windows, wait to see which spots interrupt the smooth flow of the incent smoke. If you find a leak, cover the area in clear plastic. Hardware stores sell inexpensive insulation film kits. They stick to the indoor frame using double-stick tape and are then heated with a hair dryer to shrink the film and remove any wrinkles. You can go even cheaper by using a clear, plastic shower curtain. Even stuffing the area with a towel or old T-shirt can help.
a. Splurge Option: Easy-Stop Weather-Stripping System ($74 per window) contains a silicone flap for the bottom rail of the lower sash of your window from the outside. Scrape out any cracked or dried caulk and apply the fresh bead of silicone.

5. Weather-strip with felt: To insulate the borders of your doors and windows, there are plenty of available materials, but felt is the cheapest and easiest to install. The felt goes around a door or window sash and in the door's jamb so that it compresses against the door. Felt is also easier to cut to your desired length. After using a utility knife to trim the felt to the right length, staple or nail it in place. While the felt is not as durable as other weather-stripping materials, it will be a good fix for a year or two at a time, depending on the intensity and moisture of your winters.

6. Replace your blinds, not your windows: Replacing whole windows to fix insulation problem can cost a lot of money. Instead, buy some energy-efficient blinds, which use different shapes and materials to best capture heat and contain it in your home. Also, check with the manufacturer or retailer: You may be eligible to receive anywhere up to $1,500 in tax credits on qualifying energy-efficient blind purchases. Then you'll save and maybe even earn. Even your existing blinds can help. Open all your blinds on south-facing windows during the day. This will let the sun in and allow heat into your home. Close the same blinds before the sun goes down to add a bit of insulation and keep the heat in at night.

7. Close unused rooms: Particularly during the holiday season, you're not using more than one room at a time, with the exception of large parties. So why leave unused rooms open? When you're all in the living room watching television or playing a game, close the doors to the bedrooms and any other unused areas. If you're worried about keeping the draft out, put a rug or towel at the base of a door. This way you save money on heating - keeping your room warmer and not spending to heat an unused room - and keep out unwanted draft.

8. Use rugs on bare floors: There's more to feeling warm than actual heat. Studies show that when occupying a room with red walls, people feel warmer than when they occupy rooms with light-colored walls or bare floors. An area rug does the same thing. You can find good deals on rugs at thrift stores, and they make your room seem less "cold." Also, rugs heat up the floor. By placing a rug on a bare floor, whether wooden or cement, you help to insulate the area, better trapping heat and keeping your feet warmer. By trapping heat, rugs can also lessen your heating bill. For optimum heat capture, place a rug at the foot of your couch or the edge of another large piece of furniture. This keeps heat from escaping through all sides.

9. Bundle up: One of the great things about using blankets is versatility. Without leaving the couch, you can alter your temperature by covering part of your body or the entire thing. Warm clothes also make you feel cozier, allowing you to regulate your own temperature, rather than depending on a heater. Not only will you feel in the wintry spirit, but you'll also save money on utilities.

10. Change the furnace filter: Like pools, furnaces have filters that catch particles in the air to keep the entire system cleaner. And like pool filters, furnace filters need to be changed regularly to ensure proper operation of the unit and to lessen the strain on your machine. Particle buildup in your furnace filter can decrease the filter's overall efficiency, making it work harder to pull air through the intake. Many people don't realize their furnaces have this filter, so chances are, you need to change yours. Manufacturers recommend replacing the filter anywhere from once every three months to once every year. They are relatively inexpensive and quite easy to change, so if you're planning on using your furnace this winter, make a trip to the store.

At the end of the day, you'll feel better knowing your money and your home is secure. So take a look at your home and make these easy adjustments to save money on your heating bill this winter, without freezing your toes off.

Six Quick Fixes Before Guests Arrive

From holiday party guests to summer visitors, welcoming others into your home can be hard work. Worn walkways, stuck doors and dirty windows can be a nuisance, or a safety hazard, making these household tasks a must before inviting others over. Before your next event, try some of these easy updates around your house to ensure everything is in working order.

1. Fix The Doorbell

Don't leave your holiday guests waiting out in the cold. Fixing your doorbell is a truly quick and easy fix to do on your own, and supplies are fairly inexpensive. To determine whether your chime or your transformer is the problem, purchase a $15 multimeter to test both. Replacement buttons are usually under $10, chimes are under $75 and transformers only cost around $10. In no time, you can easily have a functioning doorbell to ensure no one goes unheard.

2. Fix A Worn Concrete Walkway

Pits and cracks on walkways are common, but they leave the pathway to your home marred, and potentially dangerous. Concrete resurfacing is an easy task that can be done over the course of a day. As long as the walkway isn't cracked all the way through, you can coat the area with concrete resurfacer, which typically costs around $20 for a 40-pound bag (covering approximately 35 square feet). Because the resurfacer is naturally dark gray, you can either cover your entire walkway or buy inexpensive concrete tint to help it match closer to your slab's color. Just be sure that the temperature following your DIY project will remain 50 degrees Fahrenheit or higher for 8 hours following the project, and anywhere above freezing for the 24-hour period following that.

3. Fix A Sticking Door

Don't leave guests feeling tired or awkward each time they try to open a faulty, sticking door. This is particularly a problem with elderly guests, who may not be able to open a door with a severly sticking hinge. Doors naturally shift with age and time, making them so out of alignment that they can stick when opened or closed. There are a few culprits to examine before actually altering the door. First, check for a loose hinge. These are usually caused by stripped screw holes, which are easily plugged with glue. If the door still sticks, deepen the hinge mortises by 1/8 inch. Do this carefully and slowly to ensure you don't deepen the space too much. As a last resort (and on the condition that your paint is not lead-based), plane the door from the inside. This will make your door edges sharp, so round them slightly with some sandpaper before repainting and re-hanging the door.

4. Fix A Running Toilet

Running toilets waste water, and they also make a lot of noise. Don't leave your guests awake at night listening to it. Fixing a running toilet is quick, easy and doesn't require any tools. First, turn off the water at the toilet's shut-off valve. Remove the rubber flapper from the flush valve inside the tank and inspect it for damage or discoloration. Check the location of the float on chain and adjust the float to water level. If adjusting the float doesn't solve the problem or if there is no float at all, then install a new flapper. To ensure the new flapper creates a watertight seal with the flush valve, flush the toilet.

5. Fix The Caulk Around Your Bathtub

Aging caulk is a mating ground for mildew, and the last thing you want your guests to view, let alone use, is an unsanitary bathroom. Luckily, caulk is cheap, and it with new caulk is relatively easy and can be done in an hour. You want your replacement caulk to be either silicone or acrylic latex, (acrylic latex is much easier to work with). For the longest-lasting results, ensure that you have a clean, dry surface by removing the old caulk completely, including residue that is harder or impossible to see. When removing the existing caulk, use a plastic razor blade to avoid scratching your tub or tile. After scraping, use a dry, nonabrasive pad to scour away the remaining residue. Wipe a damp cotton rag over the joint to remove caulk dust and prepare the surface for the new caulk. Thoroughly dry the area. Lay parallel strips of blue painter's tape about 3/8 inch apart on either side of the joint. Point the nozzle hole of the tube of caulk toward the joint and hold the tube midway between the two surfaces. Run the tube smoothly along the entire seam length. After filling the seams, dampen a lint-free rag and press it into the joint with your finger. Pull it in one continuous motion along the joint to shape the caulk. Immediately remove the tape, but do it slowly and carefully to ensure you don't touch or alter the fresh caulk. Use the rag to smooth the tiny edges left by the tape. Wait 24 hours following the project before using the shower or tub.

6. Clean All Your Windows

Don't leave your guests inconvenienced and alarmed because they can't see out the window. Most people clean their windows ineffectively, pushing dirt around with paper towels that only build up static and attract more dirt. For the best results, wash the windows with a strip applicator soaked in warm water and dishwasher soap. The fewer suds, the better. Starting at the top left, wipe the soapy pane clean with a squeegee in a reverse S pattern. If you're left-handed, then you should start at the top right. At the end of each stroke, wipe the squeegee clean with a lint-free rag. To remove any remaining water at the edges, wipe down with a damp but wrung-out shammy. Use a rag to dry the windowsills. For smaller window panes, you'll have to customize the size of your squeegee to fit the pane's width as exactly as possible. You should also use a natural sponge soaked in dish soap and warm water for the panes, rubbing from left to right, top to bottom. Use a single top-to-bottom stroke with a squeegee to wipe the soap clean. Remove remaining moisture the same you would a larger window.
Fixing up your home before guests arrive is a great way to ensure that both you and your guests are comfortable throughout their stay. Make sure your walkways, doors, windows, bathrooms and other areas of your home likely to be used are all functioning properly and safely. This will help prevent awkward or even dangerous situations for your guests, and save you from the embarassment of dealing with them afterwards.

How to Measure a Room for Paint

How much paint do I buy for this room? There seems to be much confusion about calculating paint coverage when starting a painting project, but in reality, there doesn't need to be.

The accepted industry standard for paint coverage is 350 to 400 square feet per gallon of paint. However, this varies, because not all paint pigments (colors) are opaque. Yellows are quite transparent and will require several coats of paint to match the color chip. Reds and violet-blues, on the other hand, are extremely opaque. Whites are usually opaque, but coverage may vary slightly by the tint base of the white and the underlying color of the wall.
Quality of paint is another variable. Generally, architectural grades of paint have greater coverage capacity. Less expensive paint grades sacrifice opacity and brightness for price. Armed with this information as a basis, let's get started.
To break this down into easy-to-understand steps, there are several key points to remember. For rounding purposes, I'll use the coverage figure of 400 square foot per gallon. But you should remember to adjust that figure if you're using transparent pigmented paint. I recently painted my family room a bright marigold yellow and found that it took three coats.

What You'll Need

To measure for your paint coverage, you'll need the following supplies: a pen or pencil, paper, a tape measure and a calculator. It is also a good idea to know the shade and opaqueness of the paint you would like to use.

Measuring and Calculating

To calculate an interior room that is 10 feet by 12 feet with 8-foot-high walls, follow these equations.
There are two 10-by-8-foot walls, two 12-by-8-foot walls, and a 10-by-12-foot ceiling. The square footage you'll need to cover can be calculated this way 2(10x8) + 2(12x8) + 1(10x12). So, 160 + 192 + 120, which equals 472. That means there are 472 square feet of wall and ceiling to cover with paint. So, if a gallon of paint covers 400 square feet of wall space, then this room will consume 1 gallon, plus 1 quart for this room.
To be more particular, you can subtract the square footage of any windows, or of any doors you won't be painting. Single doors average 21 square feet, while windows average 16 square feet. Therefore, our room, with one single door and window, would have 37 square feet less (21+16=37) of wall area. French doors (double doors), of course, will average 42 square feet, and so forth for stacked or multiple windows. Always measure your own doors and windows, however, to account for any small differences.

Primer and Prep

Primer is needed for previously colored walls or walls that needed repair. Most primers will usually cover 200 to 300 square feet per gallon. Under-painting with primer adds another advantage in that it dries with a fine "tooth" to the paint surface, helping the final coat of paint adhere to the walls and ceiling better than it would without primer.
The typical homeowner will want to paint the trim (base boards, doors and windows) in a glossy paint, while most interior walls will be in a flat paint. The exceptions are kitchen and bathroom walls, which will usually be semi-gloss or gloss, simply for ease of maintenance.
Before painting, it is always a good practice to fill all the nail holes, and to scrub the walls, ceiling and trim with an aggressive cleaning solution to remove dirt, smoke and grease from all soon-to-be-painted surfaces. This ensures the best adhesion of the new paint. Always check the manufacturer's specifications for coverage area and surface preparation. Then, adjust your list of how much paint to buy.

Tips on How to Clean Your Gutters

Some people don't realize that a full gutter is not a good thing. The point of a gutter is to streamline any excessive water, debris and dirt off your roof and away from your home. This prevents mold and mildew growth and prevents roof damage. If the gutter is clogged with too much of any of those things, then it is not working properly and either needs cleaning or repair to get the draining back to its normal rate. Too much debris can actually weight down your gutters to so much that they become detached from your rooftop completely. The easiest thing to do before repairing or replacing your gutters is to clean them, either yourself or through a professional.

When To Clean Your Gutters

You should clean your gutters at least twice a year, once in the spring and then again in the late fall, after the majority of the leaves have fallen but before the major rain occurs. If you live in a dry climate area, then springtime cleaning may not be necessary, but a quick checkup of your gutters is never a bad idea. If you live in extremely rainy climates, then cleaning your gutters twice in winter may be a safer bet.

How to Clean Your Gutters

Gather all your supplies. You'll need waterproof gloves, a stable ladder, a bucket, a garden trowel or gutter scoop, a garden hose and a metal hanger, hook or plumber's snake (closet auger style).
Choose a place to start cleaning. The best location to start is the highest-most point of your gutter trail, because as you clean downward, your work will become quicker and easier as the debris dissipates and the drain begins working correctly. Put on your waterproof gloves and set your ladder flat on the ground at the point you want to begin cleaning. Wrap your garden hose (preferably with a controlled nozzle tip) around the top part of your ladder for security while you work. Place your bucket and trowel next to the top of the ladder or, if you're using an A-style ladder, on a level part of the roof near where you're starting to clean. Always clean your gutters while standing on the ladder. Never try to clean your gutters from the rooftop, because the downward gravity will likely pull you downward, increasing your chances of falling.
If you're uncomfortable carrying a bucket up a ladder, then you can bring a trash bag instead. Stuff it in your pocket if you really want to go hands free. If you don't have any spare trash bags, then you can just remove the debris from the gutter and drop it freefall down to the ground. You'll have to clean up the leaves and debris later with a rake or broom.
Begin by removing any large and visible twigs or debris manually and placing them in your bucket. Then proceed to scoop up the other leaves and debris with your trowel. If you don't have a gutter trowel or scoop and don't want to spend the money on one, you can use a DIY version instead. Large serving spoons are a decent substitute, and gallon milk jugs with a corner cut off work extremely well. You can use your hands to remove the debris, but even with gloves on, you run the risk of cutting yourself on some form of debris. A scooper nearly always works best.
Scoop as much of the debris out as you can with the scooper and your hands, placing it in the bucket or dropping it below as you go. As the debris us removed, the water at the bottom should begin draining again. To remove any addition dirt and debris, run your garden hose over the gutter carefully, guiding the debris downward toward the drain. Be sure not to use a heavy spray setting, because you don't want to add excess stress to the gutters and risk them breaking or collapsing.
As you move down your gutters, move the ladder and your cleaning station accordingly. It's better to do this a lot than not enough, to avoid risky leaning and possibly tipping your ladder over. Empty out your bucket into a trash bin whenever necessary to avoid spilling the debris on the roof. Once you get to the gutter drain, make sure that water is draining through completely. If not, then you will need to use a wire hanger, hook or plumber's snake to remove any debris. A closet auger style plumber's snake will work best, because the rounded hook is best for pulling items out without risking damage to the drain. Remove as much debris with the snake as you can and then use the hose to drain out the rest.
If at any point in the process you find a leak in your gutters or some other structural issue, stop what you're doing and consult a professional. This will prevent any unnecessary additional damage to the gutters. A professional can tell you what your next steps should be.

Cost

Cleaning your gutters doesn't require any special cleaning liquid or detergent, so the cost of doing it yourself is never more than the few dollars it costs for supplies and your time. If you are paying a professional to clean your gutters, then never pay more than $150, unless you have an abnormally large house, excessively tricky gutter railings or several procedural requests. If you live in an average-sized single-story home, then you shouldn't have to pay more than $50 to $100.
Hiring a professional to clean your gutters is not necessary, but if the time and effort is worth it for you, then it may be a good idea. Just let the person know if you have any precious plants or below-gutter fixtures that you care about deeply, so that they can be aware of this and avoid dirtying it up or ruining it altogether. A good instance to hire a professional, in most all cases, is if you have a home higher than one story. The added height and dimensions involved in a multiple-story home can provide extreme safety challenges for the average homeowner cleaning themselves, so it's safest to consult a professional in those cases.

How to Install Drywall

Drywall installation is a task that can be done by most homeowners with basic craftsman skills. However, it is much easier if you have a friend or helper, as the 4-by 8-foot drywall panels are heavy. Drywall is manufactured in 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch thicknesses. For two-layer installation or curved walls, thinner 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch sheets are available. Typically, single-story residents require 1/2-inch drywall sheets, while two-story applications require 5/8-inch sheets. Some applications may require fire-rated Type-X drywall, such as between apartments or on a garage wall that joins a house. Please note that Type-X drywall is fire resistant but not fireproof.

Before you start, it is a good idea to check the local building department for your city's code requirements. Most building departments will be happy to provide a copy of the local codes for drywall installation and nail or screw spacing.

Tools You'll Need

The necessary tools include a soft lead pencil, 12- to 25-foot tape measure, 48-inch drywall T-square, utility knife with extra blades, keyhole saw, drywall hammer, electric screwdriver with drywall bit, 4-inch and 6-inch putty knives and a small hand-held rasp. Optional tools include a circle cutter, electric saber saw, 12-inch or wider finishing knife and a drywall router.
High-quality tools save time during the project. A quality tape measure should have a thumb or finger lock to hold the tape at the measured distance. A drywall hammer is different than the everyday finish hammer. Drywall hammers have a special serrated face that helps keep them on the nail head. Look for an electric screwdriver with a magnetic screw-holding tip and an adjustable clutch. The clutch will release and stop the driving of the screw when it has reached the proper degree of tightness and depth on the drywall sheet. Hand-held rasps are handy to quickly reduce and straighten the cut edge of drywall pieces. This is also handy for fine-fitting drywall pieces. If the project is a remodel and already sheeted, you may want to add a stud finder to your tool box. A stud finder will help to quickly locate hidden wall studs behind existing drywall or paneling.

Measure the Area of Your Project

Carefully measure each wall to estimate how many sheets of drywall the project will require. Be certain to allow for areas you will need to cut out, such as doorways and windows, and for measuring mistakes that might happen as you progress.

Sheet the Walls

Install the sheets horizontally. Measure the first wall to find the nearest stud. Be certain that the end of the sheet falls across the center of a stud. This will strengthen your joint when it is taped later. Measure your first drywall sheet, and cut to fit with a utility knife. Also, measure for any obstructions, such as light boxes, air conditioning vents or outlets, and cut these out with a utility knife or keyhole saw. Stagger all end joints to avoid joint cracking.
Hold the sheet in position, begin at the center of the sheet and apply screws every 8 inches along each stud, sinking the heads just below the surface without tearing the paper. The screws around the edges of the sheet should be not less than 3/8 inch or more than 1/2 inch from the edge of the sheet. Work your way around the room and sheet the remaining walls. If the room requires metal corner beads or pre-finished rounded corners, then apply those now.

Tape and Mud

Start by checking that each screw or nail is sunk below the surface of the drywall. It is easier to fix any problems now, rather than trying after you've started to tape and mud.
Take the 4-inch putty knife and cover up each screw or nail dimple with joint compound, keeping the surface flush with the wall. Next, take the 6-inch putty knife and run it along each seam of the drywall, filling each crease with joint compound. Then, tape the joints. Hold one end while your friend stretches the paper tape along the freshly mudded seam. Smooth the tape into the wet mud with the 6-inch knife and remove any excess compound.
After the first coat has dried, lay a second coat of joint compound over it, feathering the edges about 4 inches on each side of the joints. After the second coat has dried, apply the third coat, feathering it 7 or 8 inches on each side of the joint. The third coat is usually just a very light skim coat with a 12- or 14-inch finishing knife. When it's dry, finish sanding with 100- or 120-grit sandpaper. Use goggles and a dust mask when sanding. The gypsum dust and joint compound dust can irritate your eyes and throat. Sand only the joint compound, not the paper. If you damage the paper, you may need to float a very thin coat of joint compound over it.
Now you're ready for paint.

5 Things to Toss This Spring

It's springtime, everybody, so you know the drill. Your house needs to lose some weight, not you. The good news is that your home doesn't need to diet; it just needs some TLC. So start hacking away at the excess in your home by disposing of these five sneaky items. Whether you know it or not, they're just wasting valuable space, health and/or sanity.

Pillows: Once you read this, you won't even want to keep your old pillows around. The lifespan for a typical bed pillow is two to three years. In that time, it accumulates dust mites, bacteria, mildew and fungus, all of which only grow worse with time and all of which can cause serious health issues, particularly for people with asthma and allergies. In fact, a British study found that the average used pillow has 1 million fungus spores, including species found in bread mold and on shower walls. While washing your pillow can temporarily relieve this, it does not solve the problem. If you're unsure of whether your pillow qualifies for the toss, then try this: Fold the pillow in half. If it stays folded, then it's definitely time for a new one.

Magazines: The average magazine is 9 inches wide and 11 inches tall, so there's almost 100 square inches of storage space being wasted (and that's only if you stacked them all in one pile). Remember in high school when you kept all those old book reports and homework assignments in a box in your closet, only to find at the end of the year that you had WAY too many papers on your hands? Well, that's your magazine collection now. I don't care how big a Cosmopolitan fan you are; you don't actually need to know the top fashion tips from fall 2008. If there are any articles or features that are particularly important to you, then clip them from the magazine and file them away. Then recycle the rest of the magazine, because it's just wasting space.

VHS tapes: Don't deny it: You still have a stack of VHS tapes in your entertainment drawer. Not only are they outdated and nearly useless with all modern technology, but they also take up a lot of space. Don't worry; you don't have to throw the footage out completely, but you should at least transfer your videos onto more modern and space-saving devices, like DVDs or hard drives. There are many companies that will convert your VHS tapes to DVDs for under $20, making the transfer not quite as painful. However, any movies that you own on VHS are excluded from this due to copyright laws. But really, do you need that tape copy of "The Last Unicorn"? Once you've completed the transfer of your home videos, toss those tapes out, stat.

Makeup: Whether you paid too much on it or not, it's easy to let that old makeup sit in the back of your cabinet or drawer for all eternity, all because it hasn't run out yet. Unfortunately, makeup does not last forever, even if you want it to, and that extra space in your bathroom could be useful for storing other things (like new makeup). The shelf life of mascara is three months, liquid foundation six months, lipstick one year, eye shadow two years, perfume two years and nail polish one year. I bet you that over half your makeup collection is beyond those life spans. I know you were obsessed with that hue of lipstick when you bought it, but keeping it now won't make that mistake go away. Throwing it in the garbage, however, will.

Paint: Paint is not, as many people believe it to be, everlasting. Even if you've been careful about storing unopened cans of paint by keeping them in cool, dry space where they aren't exposed to extremely hot or cold temperatures, you can only expect a two-year shelf life. If there are any noticeably older cans of paint lying around in your shed or garage, then toss them. But don't put them with the other trash. Lead and other chemicals in paint can be hazardous, so visit Earth911.com to find local dispensaries that can properly dispose of your paint.
At the end of the day, your home should reflect your life this time of year: clean and refreshed. So take some extra time this season to put your home and your world together in a fresh and healthy way.

How to Install a Laundry Chute

Doing laundry isn't the most difficult thing to do. In fact, it's quite easy. But the hard part lies in actually getting your laundry to the machine where the cleaning will take place. For two-story homes especially, getting those dirty clothes ready for loading can get tricky. This is where a laundry chute can come in very handy. To learn how to install your very own laundry chute for quick and easy laundry transportation, look no further!

What You'll Need

Necessary tools for this project include a tape measure, a 4-in-1 screwdriver, a cordless drill, a drill bit set, a drywall saw, a reciprocating saw, a utility knife, tin snips and a taping knife. You will also need a metal duct, laundry chute door, duct tape, sheet metal screws, drywall, drywall tape, drywall compound, sandpaper, primer and paint.

Step 1: Check Your Building Codes

Most cities have strict codes in place for building modifications, fire safety and expansion limitations. Some limit the installation of laundry chutes, especially in buildings that are two stories tall and have an unobstructed pathway, which is breeding ground for quick smoke and fire spread. Before starting any project involving laundry chutes, check with your local building inspector for the guidelines in your city.
Next, choose a suitable place for your chute. Finding an unobstructed path between two floors can be difficult and sometimes impossible, with all the plumbing and wiring issues present in household structures. Typically, the best place for your chute is in a hallway where the wall runs parallel to the floor joists or the studs in the wall are stacked directly atop the floor joists below. Just be careful to ensure that the chute is tall enough that it doesn't pose a safety risk for small children. Using a stud finder, locate two studs; then bore a small exploratory hole to check for obstructions. Once you've found a proper location and gotten approval from the correct officials, you're ready for step two!

Step 2: Open the Wall

Carefully remove the baseboard to open the wall. Then, using a utility knife, cut out a 42-inch-tall patch of drywall down the center of each stud. Cut out the base plate between the studs using a reciprocating saw or handsaw. Carefully pull the plate out, as the drywall and the trim on the opposite side may be nailed to it. Cut a hole through the plywood floor for the duct to slide through. At the top of the cutout, install a 2-by-4 piece of blocking between the studs as a nailing surface for your laundry door frame.

Step 3: Install the Metal Duct

To make the chute, use ordinary 3 1/4-by-12-inch galvanized heating duct. Also have a 90-degree elbow with a 6-inch register opening and a preassembled laundry chute door. You can find these at any lumberyard or home improvement center. Snap the rectangular duct pieces together. Using metal-cutting snips, expand the opening in the 90-degree elbow to make it just slightly smaller than your laundry door opening.
Trim and fold over the opening flap that you cut; then install the chute. Using sheet metal screws, attach the duct to your top blocking and the studs on each side. Duct-tape the joint between the two pieces on the inside and on the edges of all openings so that clothes won't snag on sharp edges. Paint and patch the drywall. Then install the laundry chute door, and make sure that at least two sides of the door frame are screwed to the underlying 2-by-4s. At the bottom of your chute, place a laundry basket on a table or on the floor to catch any falling laundry. Ta-da! You have completed the project!
Laundry chutes are invaluable household tools, particularly in two-story homes or buildings with a basement laundry space. By following the basic steps shown above, you can add your very own chute, making laundry duties that much easier and saving you the strain of traveling up and down the stairs. So next time, don't bother paying for a fancy laundry basket. Instead, just keep your laundry chute clean and let it do the rest.

Plumbing Repairs: Basic Tips & Tricks

A correctly designed and installed plumbing system is nearly trouble-free. When a problem does occur, many simple plumbing repairs can be done by the homeowner with a few modest tools.

Tools

The following tools are needed for basic plumbing repairs: flathead and Phillips screwdrivers, small and large crescent wrenches, pliers, valve seat grinder, valve seat wrench, packing and valve seat washers, O rings, auger or snake, and a pipe wrench.

Find Your Shutoff Valves

Most plumbing systems provide a number of shutoff valves within the home. It is a good idea to become familiar with their locations in case of an emergency. Sinks and lavatories will have individual shutoffs for both hot and cold water supplies. Toilets will have just one shutoff, usually found under the toilet tank. Hot water can be shut off at the water heater. In addition, most houses will have a main water shutoff at the street, or near the water meter. Be aware that you may need a special wrench for this valve. This type of wrench is available at most hardware stores or home centers.

What to Do During an Emergency

Overflowing Toilet Tank
A toilet tank overflowing into the toilet bowl will continue running long after flushing. Remove the tank lid and inspect the toilet tank valve and flapper. Sometimes the float needs adjusting, and other times the valve or rubber flapper (sometimes called a toilet tank ball) will need to be replaced. Check the rubber flapper and the tank valve seat (bottom of tank) for signs of wear or corrosion on the seat.
Begin repair by closing the water supply shutoff valve, and turn the handle clockwise. Most toilet valves and flappers can be replaced with simple tools such as a crescent wrench, a screwdriver and a pair of pliers. It is important to note the manufacturer of the toilet and its age. The underside of the tank lid will have the casting date (the age) of the toilet. You can now choose the correct repair parts for your toilet. Read the directions carefully when installing the new parts. Most replacement parts are now plastic and only require a finger-tight fit plus a quarter-turn with a wrench. Applying too much torque will mean another trip to the hardware store for parts.

Stopped Sink Drain
Use a rubber plunger to force the drain open. If this fails, then apply a chemical drain-opener. If that is also unsuccessful, then it's time to remove the trap or goose-neck fitting under the sink. Some models will have a drain plug. If yours does, then place a pail under the trap to catch the water, and remove the plug. Use a bent coat hanger wire to remove the debris, which is usually hair and grease. If it becomes necessary to remove the entire trap, then use a crescent wrench or pipe wrench, remove the nut at the top of the trap (nearest the sink drain), and unscrew the trap from the pipe extending from wall. Remove the trap and clean as needed. Reassemble the plug and trap. Then, run very hot water down the drain for five minutes to clean the drain.

Unclogging a Main Drainpipe
Sometimes fixture drains back up due to a blockage in one of the main drainpipes, rather than in the sink drain.
If this is the problem, then locate the nearest Drain/Waste/Vent clean-out plug. Remove the plug and drain all the water from the blocked line. With the clean-out plug removed, insert a garden hose and attempt to clear the drain line. If this is unsuccessful, then insert a plumber's auger, which looks like a wire spring with a handle at the end, and rotate to clear the blockage. If the blockage persists, then the next step is a plumber's snake. These are available in both a hand-operated version and a motorized version, in lengths up to 100 feet. Hardware stores will have the hand-operated models, and rental yards will have the motorized ones. You can always call the plumber as a final resort.

Dripping Faucets
Most faucets leak for one of two reasons: The washer at the valve seat is damaged, the packing washer around the handle is worn, or both. Some modern faucets use a rubber O ring instead of a traditional washer. It is a good idea to keep a supply of O rings and washers in your repair kit.
Start by removing the faucet's handles. Most faucet handles and knobs are removed by unscrewing or unsnapping the top cap, and then unscrewing the knob or handle from the stem. Turn off the water shutoff valves by turning the handles clockwise. Remove the packing nut from the stem, unscrew the stem and check the packing washer, seat washer and valve seat for wear. The seat washer will unscrew with a flat screwdriver. If the valve seat is worn, then it can be resurfaced with a valve seat grinding tool. These are inexpensive and available anywhere plumbing parts are sold. Some modern faucets have removable seats, which unscrew either with a large flat screwdriver or a square valve seat wrench (also inexpensive). It's a good idea to replace all washers at this time. Reassemble, turn on the water supply and check for leaks.

Pipe Leaks
Pipe joints that have corroded and pipes that have frozen or burst will leak. Tightening a threaded joint or soldering a soldered joint may fix the problem. Burst pipes can sometimes be repaired by using a repair coupling or a clamped-on patch. An emergency patch can be assembled from several hose clamps and a small section of garden hose or a scrap of rubber. This temporary fix will get you through an emergency, but the pipe still has to be replaced. Galvanized or brass pipes can usually be unscrewed and replaced. Copper pipes will require soldering. If you are uncomfortable with soldering, then call a plumber.

How To Decorate With Wallpaper

A Guide to Using Wallpaper For Interior Design

Wallpaper is a trend that has been around for centuries. People who want a custom look without the tools and time necessary for painting turn to it for a simple solution. Like paint, wallpaper is easy to do yourself, so hiring a professional is rarely necessary. Take a day with some friends or your family, and add a spruce of color or design to your house.

Wallpaper Designs

Solid Colors work best in rooms with ornate furniture or decoration. This avoids clashing, tones down the fancy décor and brings attention to the important pieces in the room.

Light Colors -- For smaller rooms and for living areas, consider light colors, which make the space appear larger than it is. Again, it highlights hanging art and fancy accoutrements to the room. Light colors also provide a sense of warmth, which works well in family-centered areas.
Dark Colors -- Dark colors do the opposite of light colors. While they can make a room feel cool and relaxed, they also make spaces seem smaller than they actually are. To avoid too much cramping, consider only wallpapering one or two walls, always leaving the ceiling alone. Dark colors may work best in a dining room, where a relaxed atmosphere is ideal.

Patterns can do one of a couple things. Most commonly, they operate as shields, hiding bumps, nicks and other imperfections on your walls. They also serve as eye-catchers, appealing on their own as decorative contributions. Avoid dark patterns, which often come off as dated and cluttered. Lighter, brighter colors are better for adding a splash of creativity without appearing old.

Repeated/floral patterns -- Floral patterns are the most common "shield" wallpapers. For smaller rooms, such as guest rooms or nooks, floral patterns work well, as they highlight the limited space. In bigger rooms, floral patterns are best when limited to one wall alongside paint of a complementary color. It adds a splash of design without overwhelming the large space. Also, floral wallpaper is recommended to accompany simple, limited room décor.
Large patterns -- To make a space more cozy and intimate, adding large patterns works best, creating a visual appeal that supplement the existing room décor. Many people use large patterns in larger living areas to make them feel less intimidating. Be sure to choose colors, designs and shapes that match your existing furniture.
Small patterns -- Small patterns, like floral patterns, work well in small spaces, adding volume to the room. If you design with specific color schemes in mind, small patterns work well also, because they call attention to specific hues depending on the pattern you purchase.

Stripes, whether thin or thick, are extremely bold designs. For this reason, they should be limited to two walls maximum per room and should also never face opposite directions in the same room. For example, do not have one wall with horizontal stripes and its neighboring or mirroring wall with vertical stripes. The clash will likely cause disorientation to room goers, making one wall appear larger than the other.

Vertical stripes -- To heighten a short room, consider vertical stripes, which visually expand the wall, making the ceiling appear higher. This typically works best with two colors from the same hue, because simpler is better for space expansion. Vertical stripes can also add a dash of flair to a child's room or a den/library area.
Horizontal stripes -- For small closets and other narrow spaces, horizontal stripes are creative. They elongate the walls, making tight spaces appear larger than they are. If you choose to use horizontal stripes in a large living area, restrict them to one all to avoid making the room appear too short.

Wallpaper Features

Scrubbable wallpaper can withstand brush scrubbing with a mild detergent to remove stains. This is ideal for family homes or accident-prone decorators.
Washable wallpaper is extremely beneficial for bedrooms and living rooms, spaces where furniture is often placed close to or directly against the wall. Washable papers have acrylic coating, making them sponge safe.
Textured/embossed wallpaper adds another dimension to a room, something that works well with big spaces. Some textured wallpapers can even imitate certain materials, such as leather or tin, and embossed papers add an eclectic touch that appears to rise from the wall. Some embossed papers are ready to paint. Many designers use embossed/textured wallpapers in children's rooms for visual stimulation, and they also work well on uneven walls. Simple textures work well with light-colored wallpaper, updating it to simple elegance.
Coordinating borders are extremely helpful for DIY decorators. Most wallpaper has a coordinating border system, which lists a complementary border for the paper design/color you have selected. The manufacturer's selection will guide you to a traditional, effortless look. If you want a more custom appearance, you may want to choose your own pairings, but tread carefully, because borders are hard to replace once they've been glued.
Faux surfaces/landscape wallpaper can replicate the appearance of any setting on your wall, from a log cabin to a space station. Many people like to use these in game rooms or children's bedrooms to add flavor and creativity. Do not use them in general seating areas -- living room, den, library -- where the effect will eventually feel tacky.

Where Not to Put Wallpaper

Outside -- While many wallpapers have an acrylic coating that fights moisture, the combination of sunlight, infestation and moisture will wear out the paper quickly. Outdoor wallpaper also has a kitschy appearance, which can come off as tacky.
Bathroom -- The excessive buildup of moisture and harsh cleaning chemicals will stain and wear out the wallpaper. Because wallpapers do not stand up to intensive scrubbing or cleaning, they become nearly impossible to maintain in a bathroom environment.
Stove side of a large kitchen/anywhere in a small kitchen -- Too much direct heat and/or poor ventilation can cause the paper to boil and crack.
Under excessive direct sunlight -- While many wallpapers today are colorfast (resistant to changing color under sunlight), they still cannot be continuously exposed. Too much intensive light will cause the paper to fade, and the heat will eventually cause it to crack, so sun rooms or walls directly beneath sunroofs.

Wallpaper To-Do List

Measure the room you want to paper as accurately as possible before going to the store. Bring the surface area measurements with you to gauge how much paper you need to buy. Before checking out, always ask a professional if you have enough paper, as some require minor overlap or trimming.
Check the dye lot of the wallpaper rolls if you are buying more than one. Also referred to as the batch number or run number, the dye lot is a number including on each wallpaper roll to note which rolls were printed together. To avoid subtle color differences, you should always check to make sure the rolls are from the same dye lot. Even if the colors look extremely close in the store, you may not be able to see the complete shade change until the wallpaper is hung up.
Check your wallpaper-border compatibility before hanging anything up. While fabric-backed wallpapers are easy to remove from the wall for redesign, borders are not, so you'll want to be sure of your choice.
Find out how to remove your wallpaper before you install it. There is always a chance you'll no longer want the wallpaper, so be prepared for when/if that time comes.

A Complete Guide To Driveway Materials

The options for choosing materials for a driveway surface are plentiful, but do require research for the most optimal driveway surface for your particular home and property. Driveways are usually solid or smooth, seamless and even surfaces, or aggregate, which include gravel or crushed stones. Depending upon the surface that appeals to you and works best for your driveway, a professional may be required for proper installation.

Types Of Driveway Materials

The most popular driveway materials are asphalt and concrete.
Driveway pavers are individual bricks, pavers or other rock materials placed together, sometimes in a pattern, and can be seamless surfaces if installed properly.
In addition, there is also tar-and-chip, which is much like asphalt but not as smooth as surface.
Driveway pavers can range in size, from large design patterns to small bricks or cobblestones.
Concrete and asphalt surfaces can be created to appear as driveway pavers.
In addition, concrete driveways include options with renewable and environmentally friendly natural materials.
Driveway pavers are long lasting and durable with cobblestone driveway pavers often lasting many years before needing to make replacements.

Maintenance Of Different Types Of Driveway Materials

An advantage to an aggregate driveway is the ability for the surface to survive harsh weather conditions. A gravel driveway is easy to keep tidy and clean, and the edges can be raised to keep gravel from traveling too far into gardens and lawns.
Driveways using pavers, asphalt and concrete can be power washed to keep clean.
A gravel driveway will have easier repairs than other types of driveways. You can simply lay new rock once or twice a year to fill potholes and uneven areas.
With other driveways created from concrete or stone pavers, occasionally broken areas will need to be dug out and filled.
If a driveway is made up of individual stones, replacements are easy and more appealing than filling with a different material.
Asphalt driveways will crack and will also be susceptible to potholes if not properly maintained. Crack fillers and asphalt cold patches can be used to fix a driveway, which are available at home improvement stores. If an asphalt driveway is in very bad shape, homeowners should consider resurfacing it.
A concrete drive will also crack if not maintained properly, and water freezing in cracks can cause even more breaking. Using concrete sealer will help, but if the problem continues and expands, a professional may be required.

When considering driveway materials living in a four season climate, snow removal, rain water run off and other weather conditions will be important factors in choosing a durable material. Snow removal including snow blowers or plows may have to use extreme caution not to damage a driveway, especially with aggregate surfaces. It’s also important to understand the types of sealers used on smooth surfaces driveways, which may buckle, freeze and crack in harsh winter conditions or consistent rainy weather. Drains and gullies will help with water run off for snow melting and heavy rains.

Driveway Lighting And Other Outdoor Needs

Outdoor lighting is important, especially for long driveways where night driving can be hazardous.
Also, lighting at the beginning of driveway is sometimes necessary for streets that do not have streetlights.
When creating a new driveway surface, keep in mind the need for outdoor lighting and the type of lighting that will work for your property. Outdoor lights can be either hardwired at a low voltage or solar-powered. Solar-powered outdoor lights can draw electricity from a remote solar panel or from small solar cells mounted to the tops of the light fixtures.
If a driveway has a gate, keep in mind the height of a gate from the ground when selecting the material used for the driveway surface so the gate is not impaired.

DIY Or Professionally Installed Driveways: Professional Scams Vs. DIY Mistakes

It is typically necessary to hire a professional for smooth surfaces and paver type driveways. Sealing, levels and other driveway considerations can be difficult to achieve on your own. In addition, professionals have plans to maintain driveways if you don’t have the time or knowledge. However, beware of driveway companies and the potential for paving scams.

Be suspicious of a solicitor at your door offering driveway repairs. This is considered one of the oldest scams around when a con artist comes to your door and claims to have leftover asphalt from a nearby job. He then asks for payment in advance, then does little or no work.
There have also been instances of workers painting a driveway black after being paid and disappearing.
Always ask for references and resources, as well as contracts upon work.
It’s also a good idea to check your homeowner’s insurance policy for driveway damage and poor installment that may cause other problems on your property.
Have a professional estimate before hiring and be sure to compare prices.
If you plan to install your driveway yourself, check what your homeowner’s insurance will cover, should the driveway crack or cause other property damage.
Do your research before beginning a DIY driveway installation.

Do It Yourself: Hanging Ceiling Drywall

Ceiling drywall installation can be done anyone with basic craftsman skills. Because you're working overhead, it's much easier if you have a friend or helper, as the 4-x 8-foot drywall panels are heavy. Drywall is manufactured in 1/4-inch, 3/8-inch, 1/2-inch and 5/8-inch thickness. The thinner 1/4-inch and 3/8-inch sheets are used for remodeling two-layer installations or curved walls. Most single-story residential ceiling applications will require 1/2-inch sheets. Two-story applications may require 5/8-inch drywall sheets. Some applications may also require fire-rated Type-X drywall between apartments or on a garage wall joining a house. It is important to note that Type-X drywall is fire resistant and not considered fireproof.

Always check the local building department for your city's guidelines. Most can provide a copy of local codes drywall installation and nail/screw spacing.

Tools You'll Need

Assemble a soft lead pencil, a 12- to 25-foot tape measure, 48-inch T-square drywall, utility knife, keyhole saw, drywall hammer, electric screwdriver with drywall bit, 4- and 6-inch putty knives, and a small handheld rasp. A circle cutter, electric saber saw, 12-inch or wider finishing knife and a drywall router, may also be helpful.
Quality tools save time while drywalling. For example, find a tape measure with a thumb or finger lock. Drywall hammers have a special serrated face, which helps keep them on the nail head and will work better than a finish hammer. For an electric screwdriver, look for a magnetic screw-holding tip and an adjustable clutch. This will stop the screw from driving once it has reached the proper tightness and depth. Pocket planes or handheld rasps can quickly reduce and straighten the cut edge of drywall pieces.

Measuring Your Project

Measure the entire ceiling to estimate how much drywall you'll need. Allow for extra pieces in areas you will need to cut out, such as light fixtures, skylights and windows, and for those little measuring errors that happen as the job progress.

Drywall the Ceiling

To get started, measure from the wall to the closest ceiling joist or rafter. Be certain the end of the sheet falls across the center of a joist or rafter. By nailing into a joist or rafter, you produce a stronger joint for when it is taped. Measure the drywall sheet, and cut it to fit with a saw or utility knife. Measure for any obstructions, such as ceiling lights, air conditioning vents or outlets, and cut out these areas with a keyhole saw or utility knife. Stagger the end joints to make a stronger ceiling and to avoid cracking. All drywall panels on your ceiling should be perpendicular to the ceiling joists or rafters.
While a friend holds the sheet in position, begin at the center of the sheet and apply screws every 7 inches along each ceiling joist or rafter. Sink the heads just below the surface, and be careful not to tear the paper. Each drywall sheet needs screws around the edges of the sheet. They should be no less than 3/8 inch and no more than 1/2 inch from the sheet edge. Always use screws on ceilings; drywall nails have a bad habit of popping out after a year or so.

Tape and Mud

Get started by confirming each screw or nail is sunk just below the drywall surface. Fix any screw or nail problems now rather than after you've started to tape.
Use the 4-inch putty knife to cover all screw heads with joint compound, keeping the surface flush with the ceiling. Take the 6-inch putty knife and run it along each seam of the drywall, filling each crease with joint compound. Apply tape to the joints after. While a friend holds one end, stretch the paper tape along the freshly mudded seam. Starting at the center of each seam, smooth the tape into the wet mud with the 6-inch knife and remove any excess compound that seeps around the edges.
Give the first coat a day to dry. When it has dried completely, lay a second coat over it, feathering the edges wider, to at least 4 inches on each side of the taped joints. After the second coat has dried, apply the third coat, feathering it 7 or 8 inches on each side of the joint. However, the final coat is a very light skim coat, and it should be feathered with a 12- or 14-inch finishing knife. Remember to give each coat ample time to dry. Finish sanding the ceiling with 100- or 120-grit sandpaper. Be sure to wear goggles and a sand mask, as the dust from gypsum and joint compound can irritate your eyes and throat. When sanding, sand only the joint compound, not the paper. Damaged paper will require an additional thin coat of joint compound.
Now that the drywall is finished, you're ready to move on to primer, paint and texture.

9 Home Cleaning Essentials

It can be difficult to sift through all the home cleaning supplies at your local grocer, hardware store or large retailer. All the detergents, cleaning materials and types of cleaning cloths could drive you insane, but we here at IdealHomeGarden.com think that the process should be at least a little simpler than throwing darts in the dark. Here are the nine cleaning essentials that we think every cleaning cabinet should have.

Latex gloves: No matter what you're cleaning or when, there's always the risk of harming your hands, skin and nails with cleaning materials and other, just plain gross, stuff on your walls or floors. Find a good pair of latex gloves that extend to the forearms, for maximum coverage.
All-purpose cleaner: There will be plenty of surfaces you come across in your cleaning days that just don't have a specified cleaning chemical. For those, and for a few others, there's all-purpose cleaner. Choose one that's in a scent you love, to make cleaning rewarding and easier.
Disposable wipes: When you're in a hurry and that stain on the counter isn't going to clean itself, disposable wipes are the perfect solution. They work on fixtures, floor corners and other typically grimy places, and you don't have to deal with heavy-duty cleaners or rags. Can I get an amen?
Nylon sponges: There will always be dried-up stains and materials that need a little extra scrubbing to get them clean. To pick up the grime in less time, buy a pack of nylon sponges, with both soft and scrubber sides, to make your scrubbing and swiping as easy as one-two.
Half-height bucket: While everyone wants to hold more water in their mop bucket or the like, nothing is more frustrating than needing to fill it and having it not fit under the sink faucet. A typical half-height bucket holds around a few gallons, so you'll have plenty of water for your cleanup job without the extra hassle.
Distilled white vinegar: Many cleaning aficionados call vinegar their savior, a simple solution to so many un-simple problems. It works great on cutting boards, coffee stains, the dishwasher and even a load of laundry. Honestly, there's no end to this cleaner's abilities. Just ask its label.
High-octane disinfectant: Bathroom bacterium is the scariest, nastiest, most repulsive dirty area in our home, and there's no question as to why. To get at all the mold, mildew, and (ahem) stains out, use a high-octane disinfectant. It will kill germs and still get you that sparkly clean.
Mild abrasive: Whether it's Stearn, Soft Scrub or Bar Keeper's Friend, a mild abrasive works on all those iffy material surfaces in your home, from stainless-steel pans to rust and lime marks on tile. This is also a great friend of yours in the bathroom, so always have it on hand.
Microfiber cloths: I don't know who invented these things, but that person is a genius. Microfiber cloths only need a spritz of water on them to clean something up, and they don't need any help at all in dusting. It's an all-in-one service cloth that can be used anywhere, from your kitchen to your bedroom to your car. You can never have too many. Also, if you can't find your fabric softener sheets, then throw a couple microfiber cloths in the dryer! They'll pick up the lint and keep static at bay.

When it comes to the precious space beneath your sink or in your cupboard, you can do away with unnecessary cleaners and astringents. Instead, stick to our basic list of cleaning cabinet essentials, and you'll be able to keep all those tricky messes away, without the clutter.

How to Measure for Window Treatments

Window treatments can really liven up a room, but nothing brings a lovely piece of décor down like messed-up measurements. This time around, don't let your window fall prey to simple measuring mistakes. Instead, take charge, and follow our basic tips for a foolproof design plan.

To begin, always use a proper measuring tool. When it comes to your curtains, accuracy is extremely important, so use a metal retractable tape measure. Fabric or vinyl tape strips may sag and give an incorrect measurement. Unlike with body measurements, where the tailor can fully extend the tape with their arms, windows are wide and oftentimes too large to keep a fabric material perfectly straight. Metal retractable tape is beneficial in its stability, and also has a helpful thumb accuracy button, which allows you to keep tape straight and extended without holding onto it.
If you are planning on using a curtain rod, then select the rod first. This will be your guide to the length and width of your curtains. Standard curtain rods are hung 6 inches above a window frame with about 2 to 3 inches on either side of the window. The length of your curtain panels will depend on your bottom point. Depending on your style preferences, these numbers can be adjusted. For example, for a sleeker, modern look, you may choose a chic curtain that fits perfectly within the confines of the window frame. Or, for a flowy romantic look, you can select overly long and thick curtains. It's all in your taste.
If you are planning on purchasing blinds, curtains, shutters or drapes from a store but do not have a specific curtain rod in mind, then measure the following dimensions: the length and width inside the window casing, the length and width outside the window casing, and 6 inches above the top of the window to the floor. These measurements should suffice to give the salesperson enough information to guide you to the proper materials. These measurements will also help you to determine what size curtains or drapes to buy. For accuracy purposes, always measure everything twice, then write it down immediately afterward. Bring the original scrap paper with you, to avoid any possible error. Once curtains are tailored to your preferences, particularly from a custom shop, they are extremely difficult to return for a full refund, so accuracy is key.
Keep in mind that if you want a fuller curtain, one where the material folds liberally, you should purchase panels that are at least double the width of your windows. This gives you liberties with how much you want to fold the panels and tailor them to your room. Also, be sure to mention to the salesperson the exact type of measurements that you are discussing. For example, if you take the measurements from the outside of your window frame, then let the salesperson know so. The same applies for any other measurements. Having all the different measurements will help you and the salesperson work together to see what looks may work best for your window.
In the end, you want to choose the right drapes, but nothing will work if the measurements are wrong. So, be careful, be precise and most of all, enjoy your new window treatments!

What to Know Before You Paint

Painting is an intense process, and one that many people like to do themselves. However, most don't know just how much each aspect of the home painting process requires. For a quick overview of some of the most important facts of DIY home painting, look no further. We've got you covered.

The type of paint matters. Don't worry about brand names, unless you're particular to one specifically. The type of wall that you're painting should dictate the type of paint you use, so keep these general guidelines in mind: For kitchens and baths, use a moisture- and peel-resistant satin or semigloss paint that also has mildewcides. This helps fight bacteria, mold and mildew buildup from the excess steam and moisture produced in those rooms.
For ceilings, choose a paint that is specifically labeled as "ceiling paint." They are thicker and less splatter-prone than wall paint, keeping messes to a minimum while coating. The colors are also extra flat, so as to avoid any excess glare from lights in the room. For any entryway, stairway or family room, choose a durable, easy-to-clean, 100 percent acrylic latex paint in an eggshell sheen. The durability will stand up to high traffic and fingerprints that are common in these rooms.

It costs more than you think... For the average 12-by-12-foot room, a do-it-yourselfer will still pay about $200. In all, the 3 gallons of paint will usually cost close to $11, the brush, roller and cover will tally up to around $30, tape, drop cloths and sandpaper add to another $25, and 2 gallons of primer cost $35.

...and takes more time than you'd like. You can't rush painting, but a lot of people try to. Take note: The average 12-by-12-foot room takes about two days to finish completely. Here's a breakdown: Prep takes three hours, and primer one more. Primer dry time is four hours. Your first coat will take two hours, and then you have to let it dry overnight. Your second coat will take about an hour and a half, while dry time and cleanup is another five hours. Your touchups will last about an hour, and then your paint needs another overnight sit. Trust me; the right time investment makes a big difference.

You need the right tools. There are three main types of roller covers and three types of brushes. Smooth rollers with a 1/4-inch nap work best for semigloss or gloss on smooth drywall or plaster walls. Semi-smooth rollers with 3/8-inch naps work well on semigloss, flat or eggshell on lightly textured plaster or wood-paneled walls. Rough rollers have 3/4-inch nap and are best for flat or eggshell paints on highly textured stucco or masonry walls.
Brushes come in 1-inch angled, 2 1/2-inch angled and 3-inch straight models. The 1-inch angled brush is best for details, such as moldings and window muntins, while the 2 1/2-inch angled brushes work well on window and door casing, cabinetry and cutting in. Large expanses, such as wainscoting and doors, are best handled with a 3-inch straight brush.

There's a preparation checklist. Before starting paint jobs in any room, there are seven things you need to do. Remove all window treatments, wall-hung art, area rugs and outlet and switch-plate covers. Cover any remaining furniture with drop cloths, and wrap chandeliers and wall sconces in plastic sheeting. Protect window and door hardware by removing them or covering them with tape. Sand all walls and trim. Dust with a tack cloth, and treat plaster with a solution of 1 pint vinegar and 1 gallon water. Finally, tape exposed outlets and switches, window panes, HVAC vents and any other areas that need to be kept paint-free.

Different tapes are for different things. You also want to stick to the best-quality tapes, because paint bleeding is extremely difficult to remedy in most cases. For striped designs, choose tape with a polymer-based adhesive that forms a gel barrier at the edges. This will keep the stripes precise and clean. For general masking, choose a UV-resistant tape with a 14-day adhesion time. Multi-week projects require a 60-day tape that won't leave residue when you remove it. If ever you're unsure of the type of tape you need, do research online and speak to a hardware professional. He or she can point you in the right direction.
You should calculate how much paint to buy. The process is actually quite simple, so just get your calculator ready. Divide the square footage of your wall surfaces by the coverage per gallon listed on the can. That's it. For example, a 20-by-23 foot room with an 8-foot ceiling is 688 square feet. Say your paint gets 350 square feet of coverage per can. 688 ÷ 350 = 1.97. Always round up. Here, you'll round to 2. Because you're probably doing two coats of paint, double that number, so your total is 4 gallons.
In the end, precision is the most important part of your process. One misstep, and you could have to start all over, or hire a professional to fix the damage you've done. So, before you begin your next painting adventure, review these important facts. You'll likely save money, and you will be generally better prepared for this big project.

Plumbing Fixtures

Overview

Various devices such as taps, showerheads and toilet fixtures can be grouped together under the broad heading of plumbing fixtures. They direct water to wherever you need, whenever you need it, so you can use it at your convenience. They are also the focal point of your plumbing system and your major plumbing hardware expense.

Several different systems make up the plumbing in your house. Fresh water is brought into the home through water supply pipes that are connected to a utility company's infrastructure or from a well. A series of pipes and pumps distribute the water to the various sinks, toilets, washers, bathtubs and other water fixtures in your house.
Bathtubs, sinks, faucets and toilets can be purchased at many different retail outlets. You can also purchase them from an overstock warehouse as many of them have discounted rates. American Standard and Kohler are two of the popular names in the business.
Plumbing fixtures vary widely in cost depending on the particular fixture. Quality is one of the major things you should pay heed to because bad plumbing will always create expensive problems. It is also important to prepare your budget for the entire project, including labor, before you start buying plumbing fixtures. You do not want to find yourself in a situation where spend all your money on plumbing fixtures, only to discover you cannot afford a plumber or other pipe fittings.

How to Find the Right Kind of Plumbing Fixtures

If you have the right kind of plumbing fixtures for both your bathroom and kitchen, they will be the envy of the many people who visit your house. They are one of the most important aspects of home improvement!
Plumbing fixtures are used primarily in the kitchen and bathroom and are arguably the most important aspect of a modern house. This includes your home's sinks, showers, bathtubs and toilets.
Plumbing in the kitchen ranges from the fairly simple to the fairly complicated. In addition to the standard kitchen sink, kitchen plumbing can also include a variety of optional accessories like hookups for a dishwasher, disposal, icemaker, water treatment system, and instant hot water.
There are quite a large number of plumbing fixtures out there for you to take advantage of. To get an idea of how your fixtures will look once they are installed, visit shops that have products on full display.

Tips for Childproofing Your Home

They may be small and cute, but children are natural born escape artists with an innate ability to get into trouble within seconds of being out of sight. One of the most important aspects of being a parent is childproofing your home, so the little bundles of joy are safe.
Each room in the home has its own set of pitfalls and dangers that make it unique as well as general safety issues that most rooms have in common. Many locks and barriers are available for parents to purchase from a store, but some protections can be done with a little ingenuity.

Electricity

Electricity is by far the most dangerous problem for children in homes. They have a natural curiosity and when they see a hole, they want to stick something in it. That something could be a finger, coin, toy or anything else they believe is small enough to fit into it.
If they succeed, the best outcome is a mild shock that will hurt and the worst outcome, and one that far too many parents have experienced, is death. The simplest way to avoid this is to purchase plugs that stick into unused sockets. They are inexpensive and young children cannot pull them out.
As children grow, they learn how to pull out the plug. If the whole outlet isn't used, then place a plastic container over the outlet and screw it into the wall. This covers the entire outlet and the children can't take out the screws. If they manage to break the plastic, then move up to something sturdy like wood.

Stairwells and Doorways

Many times there are rooms in a home that are hardly used or that a parent just wants to keep the children out of. This could be the kitchen, dining room, sun room or any other room that may not have a door to keep children out. This also goes for any stairwells that can be a falling hazard if not blocked.
There are a variety of baby gates available that expand, contract and can be extended with additional panels to accommodate any size entryway. When installed properly, they are sturdy, little barriers that will keep children from leaving or entering the room.

Bathroom

Many children love to take baths and spend time in the bathroom. When potty training, the door is often left open to allow children free access to the toilet in case they need it. The bathroom also harbors many dangers. There are many soaps and beauty products with appealing scents that children may want to eat. There are also toilet cleansers, razor blades and access to hot water taps at the faucet, bathtub and shower that can lead to potential dangers for small children.
Grooming and beauty products need to have easy access for adults, because they are often used daily. This includes everything from shaving cream and perfumes to soaps and makeup. Never leave any products on the bathroom counter. Everything should be on a shelf, out of reach of the children, preferably in a medicine cabinet.
Cleaning products should be kept under the sink in a cabinet that is locked. There are various types of cabinet locks available at most department stores.
Many people like to keep a sanitizing disk in the toilet bowl or tank. These should be removed in case the children drink from the toilet. It's not a very sanitary idea, but kids will eat or drink anything from anywhere. Colored toilet water can actually make it look more appealing and the chemicals in the sanitizer could make them very sick. Special toilet locks, which look like clamps are available for purchase if you want extra security. This is also a great security measure to keep children from drowning in the toilet bowl.
Faucets cannot be locked down, but the water heater can be reduced to a point where if a child were to turn on the hot water, it won't be scalding hot. This can also save you some money on utility bills in the long run.

Living Room

The main issues with the living room involve decorations and electronic equipment. Any decorations should be high enough on the wall so that children can't reach them. Plants used for decorative purposes should be safe if accidentally eaten.
Decorations hung above couches or chairs should be removed, or hung high of the ground to keep children from climbing the furniture and grabbing these knickknacks. Children tempted to climb furniture can fall and injure themselves or break a decoration and cut themselves on the shards.
Cathode ray tube televisions, also known as CRT televisions, are heavy and large. Replace them with a thin flat-screen variety, which can be mounted on the wall, or placed securely in an armoire or entertainment center that is anchored to the wall. Mount a flat screen television on a wall with the proper brackets to insure children can't push or break them as well.
Cords from entertainment systems, stereos and the like, should be tied with plastic ties to reduce the opportunity for children to wrap them around their necks or trip over. Speakers placed in the rear of the room should have their cords mounted to the walls or ceiling to keep them away from children.

Kitchen

Kitchen ovens, freezers, refrigerators and cabinets should be locked at all times. Knives and other cutlery should be placed out of reach in a locked cabinet. Cleaning supplies and dishwashing liquid should be stored out of sight inside a locked cabinet. Kitchen appliances such as toasters, coffee makers and blenders should be placed in locked cabinets, and only taken out when in use and then placed back in the cabinet.
Children are curious and inquisitive, and while that is good for the learning process, it can be dangerous in the home. Practicing these tips will keep your home happy and safe for your little ones and less stressful for you.

Bad Recycling: 5 More Things to Not Recycle

No matter your intentions, mis-recycling is a very common practice, particularly around cleaning season. With spring almost here, it's good to know the ins and outs of recycling, and what to avoid putting in that green bin. Misplacing trash in the recycling bin isn't just an "oops" that can be fixed with some trash claws; it can actually damage an entire neighborhood's weeklong recycling efforts. So, before you get to cleaning your home, here are a few more recycling faux pas to avoid.

Plastic Bags

According to industry experts, the most problem-inducing non-recyclable that gets tossed in the green bin is plastic bags. They wrap themselves around the equipment, shutting down the whole plant and costing everyone time, energy and money. Plants often have to hire repairmen to come in with knives and cut the plastic bags out of the machinery. As recyclable as these plastic bags seem, they are not like their paper bag counterparts, and cannot be tossed with the rest of your recyclables.

What to do: There is hope. Most grocery stores in the United States now offer plastic bag recycling, so if you take your used bags with you to the grocery store, then you can either reuse them or hand them over for recycling. Plastic bags can be made into dozens of new and useful products, as well. They're great for trash storage in your home, saving you money on buying trash bags from the store. To lower the use of plastic bags, you can always bring reusable grocery bags to the store with you. As long as you notify your teller before checkout, he or she can help you load your groceries into whichever bags you'd like.

Brightly Colored Paper

It's like your laundry. When you put a red sock in your white load, it taints the entire load, leaving everything a useless, ugly pink color. Bright paper is the same way, so it can stop an entire batch of paper from being recycled. This is because the main use of recycled paper is more paper, and factor paper mills can't process the richer shades. When you place that bright red or purple paper in your bin, you're ruining the paper recycling efforts of your entire neighborhood.

What to do: If you really need to buy colored paper, then avoid extremely bright and rich colors, instead opting for pastels, which break down easier. Paper mills can usually handle the lighter tones, so they're more likely to recycle them. If you have richly colored paper already that you'd like to recycle, then use it for craft projects, like homemade envelopes, or use it as lining for a pet bed or storage box. Don't throw it away and let it sit in a landfill.

Bottle Caps

It seems simple, enough: You're recycling that soda bottle, so you should recycle its cap, too, right? Wrong. Bottle caps are made of polypropylene, or plastic #5, not plastic #1 like the bottles. Basically, it has to do with heat, and bottle caps have a melting point that is 160 degrees Fahrenheit higher than that of the bottle. If a cap gets mixed in with the bottles, then the entire batch can be ruined because there's unmelted plastic left in the mix.

What to do: As a general rule, remove all plastic caps and lids from their containers before tossing the bottles, jugs and tubs into the recycling bin. Then, check to see if your city accepts caps for recycling. You can do that by calling the Public Works or Department of Sanitation departments in your city's official office. If you're in an area that doesn't recycle plastic caps, then seek out retailers who accept them, like Whole Foods Market. You can visit Earth911.com to find other ones that do. Major companies like Aveda are also stepping in to help with the plastic #5 bottle cap problem.

Broken Glass

While broken glass is technically recyclable, it might not be reprocessed into new glass bottles. This is because when glass breaks, the pieces are extremely small, so it can be a real challenge to separate by color. Many recycling companies also discourage the recycling of broken glass for the safety of its workers. Waste haulers and the people who sort through recycled material at the Material Recovery Facility are at a serious risk for injury with the broken glass.

What to do: Glass is a very versatile material. To get the most out of it, use the broken pieces as an additive for fiberglass, tile and flooring, pavement or even sand. If you break the glass down enough to blend with sand, then it no longer poses a safety risk and it can help to stop beach pollution. The glass material is great for tile and flooring because of its stability and the added shine it provides. If you throw glass away, then be sure to dispose of the pieces carefully, padding if necessary to avoid injury to trash haulers.

Soiled Paper Plates

As we all know, oil and water don't mix. When they reach the recycling plant, paper materials are mixed with water to be filtered and re-formed, but any oil or grease that remains on them produces a sludge. This mulch contaminates its surrounding materials, and even just a little can damage other paper products at the center, ruining an entire batch of recyclables.

What to do: The smartest thing to do is throw the paper plates away. If there are any unsoiled pieces of the plate left, then tear or cut those off and recycle them. Paper plates in themselves are recyclable. It's the grease that taints the product. In the future, avoid purchasing disposable kitchenware like plates and cups. They are often non-recyclable once used, and they're usually not as dependable as regular dinnerware, anyway.

Hanging Pictures On Drywall: A How To Guide

Hanging pictures on drywall seems like a simple task: hammer a nail into a wall, hang the picture on the nail, and make sure everything is straight. Unfortunately, there is a little more to the whole procedure than that. When hanging pictures on drywall, you need to consider several factors like the weight of the object, the appropriate fastener to hold the object, where you want to hang the object, and whether or not the drywall will provide enough support by itself. If you want to avoid damaging both your pictures and your walls, read on to learn more about hanging pictures on drywall.

Finding the Right Frame For Hanging Pictures On Drywall

Depending on the color and size, a picture frame can be used to accentuate a particular area of a room, or draw attention to a certain spot on a wall. Here are a few tips for finding a frame for your picture:

Match the room: Look for a picture frame that matches the colors and design styles of the room you plan on hanging it in. Picture frames are a great way to enhance the room, and should help tie the room together just like a piece of furniture. The color and material the picture frame is made out of will determine if it matches the room or not.
Picture Mats: A picture mat acts as a border for a picture in a frame, and also protects the picture. Try using a picture mat that enhances both the picture and frame. A neutral colored mat won't draw attention away from the picture, while certain colors can be used to enhance the picture by either matching or contrasting with the colors in the picture.
Find the right size: Find a picture frame that is appropriate for both the size of your picture and the available wall space. If you plan on using a picture mat, select a frame that allows for extra space around the picture so the mat can be seen.
Find the right weight: Lightweight picture frames can be hung almost anywhere on drywall, while heavier frames require an area on your drywall where a wooden framing stud can be found. Heavier frames also require stronger wall fasteners, while light frames can be hung with standard picture hangers.

Where To Place Frames When Hanging Pictures On Drywall

Now that you've found the perfect frame for your picture, it's time to figure out where to hang it. Determine whether you want the picture to accentuate a room, or if you want it to be a focal point. A lone picture centered on a contrasting wall will most certainly catch people's attention. In most cases, a picture should be hung somewhere at eye level, typically 60 inches from the floor with the center of the picture used as your reference point. If you plan on hanging multiple pictures grouped together on a wall, choose your favorite picture to act as a centerpiece. Lightly mark areas on your drywall with a pencil or chalk to help you determine the best spot for your picture.

Lightweight Wall Fasteners

The most common fastener used to hang a picture on drywall is a picture hanger. These small hangers are placed flat against your drywall, and require a nail to be driven through their upper portion to fasten them to your drywall. The lower portion of the picture hanger consists of a small hook, suitable for light objects to be hung like pictures in lightweight frames. Push pins and plastic hooks with adhesives do not require any hammering or drilling, and are also suitable for lightweight objects.

Heavyweight Wall Fasteners

Larger pictures with heavier frames require a little more attention and care when being hung on drywall. If placed in an inappropriate location, the weight of the picture can pull the anchors out of the drywall damaging both the wall and the picture. The best location to hang heavier objects on drywall is in front of a wooden framing stud. Use a stud finder to locate the wooden framing studs behind your drywall. These devices typically use a magnet to detect the nails or screws used to hold framing studs during wall construction. A wall stud provides adequate support for heavier objects that require fasteners that are nailed or drilled into your drywall.

Hollow Wall Fasteners

Some wall fasteners are available that are made specifically for hollow walls like drywall. Molly and toggle bolts are designed with wings that expand behind drywall after they have been inserted through the wall. Toggle anchors also have collapsible wings that expand behind your drywall as you tighten the screw holding it in place. Expandable, metal anchors are great hollow wall fasteners for heavier picture frames. When purchasing these types of fasteners, be sure to read the packaging labels to find fasteners designed to handle the appropriate weight needed to hang your picture. Some fasteners are capable of holding heavier objects depending on the grade selected.
Hanging pictures on drywall requires a little more thought than simply hammering a nail into your wall. Just be aware of the weight of the picture, and make sure you have the right fasteners to keep it secured, and prevent the picture from damaging your wall.

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1. Fix The Doorbell

2. Fix A Worn Concrete Walkway

3. Fix A Sticking Door

4. Fix A Running Toilet

5. Fix The Caulk Around Your Bathtub

6. Clean All Your Windows

What You'll Need

Measuring and Calculating

Primer and Prep

When To Clean Your Gutters

How to Clean Your Gutters

Cost

Tools You'll Need

Measure the Area of Your Project

Sheet the Walls

Tape and Mud

What You'll Need

Step 1: Check Your Building Codes

Step 2: Open the Wall

Step 3: Install the Metal Duct

Tools

Find Your Shutoff Valves

What to Do During an Emergency

A Guide to Using Wallpaper For Interior Design

Wallpaper Designs

Wallpaper Features

Where Not to Put Wallpaper

Wallpaper To-Do List

Types Of Driveway Materials

Maintenance Of Different Types Of Driveway Materials

Driveway Lighting And Other Outdoor Needs

DIY Or Professionally Installed Driveways: Professional Scams Vs. DIY Mistakes

Tools You'll Need

Measuring Your Project

Drywall the Ceiling

Tape and Mud

Overview

How to Find the Right Kind of Plumbing Fixtures

Electricity

Stairwells and Doorways

Bathroom

Living Room

Kitchen

Plastic Bags

Brightly Colored Paper

Bottle Caps

Broken Glass

Soiled Paper Plates

Finding the Right Frame For Hanging Pictures On Drywall

Where To Place Frames When Hanging Pictures On Drywall

Lightweight Wall Fasteners

Heavyweight Wall Fasteners

Hollow Wall Fasteners

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